Topics

programming the Hilltopper Arduino chip

Charles W. Powell
 

Is the spot on the board for a 6 pin header, behind the Si5351 board, for programming the Arduino chip?  If so, how do I interface this with my Arduino board?  It would be nice to be able to program the chip without prying it in and out.  At this point, there are so many changes I'd like to try that I could be pulling that chip out 10 times in a day.

72,

Chas - NK8O 

Dave Benson
 

Chas-

Yes- that's it.  From left to right

Hillttopper           Arduino

J5 pin 1  ............. ground
J5 pin 2 .............. (no connection)
J5 pin 3 .............. 5V
J5 pin 4 .............. D0
J5 pin 5 ...............D1
J5 pin 6 ...............Reset

You need 5 male/female jumpers between the Hilltopper and the Arduino.  Each socket position on the Arduino is labeled as shown above. 

Important:  Remove the Arduino's ATmega328P  (28-pin DIP) and set it aside. 

- Dave


On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 11:42 AM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Is the spot on the board for a 6 pin header, behind the Si5351 board, for programming the Arduino chip?  If so, how do I interface this with my Arduino board?  It would be nice to be able to program the chip without prying it in and out.  At this point, there are so many changes I'd like to try that I could be pulling that chip out 10 times in a day.

72,

Chas - NK8O 

Charles W. Powell
 

Thanks Dave.   As it turns out, I have some extra chips for the Arduino but I think I misplaced the original.  After all, space is, after all, the final frontier. Especially the space between my ears.

I assume the radio should *not* be on for this operation?

72,

Chas - NK8O

On Feb 18, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

Chas-

Yes- that's it.  From left to right

Hillttopper           Arduino

J5 pin 1  ............. ground
J5 pin 2 .............. (no connection)
J5 pin 3 .............. 5V
J5 pin 4 .............. D0
J5 pin 5 ...............D1
J5 pin 6 ...............Reset

You need 5 male/female jumpers between the Hilltopper and the Arduino.  Each socket position on the Arduino is labeled as shown above. 

Important:  Remove the Arduino's ATmega328P  (28-pin DIP) and set it aside. 

- Dave

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 11:42 AM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Is the spot on the board for a 6 pin header, behind the Si5351 board, for programming the Arduino chip?  If so, how do I interface this with my Arduino board?  It would be nice to be able to program the chip without prying it in and out.  At this point, there are so many changes I'd like to try that I could be pulling that chip out 10 times in a day.

72,

Chas - NK8O 



Dave Benson
 

Chas-

Radio Off during programming?   It doesn't matter- I've done it both ways. 'Off' requires unplugging the 12V power cable. Easy to forget to plug it back in and wind up puzzled.

- Dave


On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 2:17 PM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks Dave.   As it turns out, I have some extra chips for the Arduino but I think I misplaced the original.  After all, space is, after all, the final frontier. Especially the space between my ears.

I assume the radio should *not* be on for this operation?

72,

Chas - NK8O

On Feb 18, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

Chas-

Yes- that's it.  From left to right

Hillttopper           Arduino

J5 pin 1  ............. ground
J5 pin 2 .............. (no connection)
J5 pin 3 .............. 5V
J5 pin 4 .............. D0
J5 pin 5 ...............D1
J5 pin 6 ...............Reset

You need 5 male/female jumpers between the Hilltopper and the Arduino.  Each socket position on the Arduino is labeled as shown above. 

Important:  Remove the Arduino's ATmega328P  (28-pin DIP) and set it aside. 

- Dave

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 11:42 AM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Is the spot on the board for a 6 pin header, behind the Si5351 board, for programming the Arduino chip?  If so, how do I interface this with my Arduino board?  It would be nice to be able to program the chip without prying it in and out.  At this point, there are so many changes I'd like to try that I could be pulling that chip out 10 times in a day.

72,

Chas - NK8O 



Charles W. Powell
 

Programming changes to the Hilltopper display.  Again, nothing very creative and mostly cosmetic, but I get by with a little help from my friends (Bernie, K6NAZ).  Display now toggles RIT between off and on.  Now I’m going to work on making all three radios, 40-30-20, perform uniformly.

72,

Chas - NK8O





On Feb 18, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

Chas-

Yes- that's it.  From left to right

Hillttopper           Arduino

J5 pin 1  ............. ground
J5 pin 2 .............. (no connection)
J5 pin 3 .............. 5V
J5 pin 4 .............. D0
J5 pin 5 ...............D1
J5 pin 6 ...............Reset

You need 5 male/female jumpers between the Hilltopper and the Arduino.  Each socket position on the Arduino is labeled as shown above. 

Important:  Remove the Arduino's ATmega328P  (28-pin DIP) and set it aside. 

- Dave

Dave Benson
 

Chas-

What does the 's' stand for?

I'd set mine up (on an old project) to display '+' or '-'. RIT ON with no offset was a special case- I blanked the symbol.

- Dave


On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 1:22 PM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Programming changes to the Hilltopper display.  Again, nothing very creative and mostly cosmetic, but I get by with a little help from my friends (Bernie, K6NAZ).  Display now toggles RIT between off and on.  Now I’m going to work on making all three radios, 40-30-20, perform uniformly.

72,

Chas - NK8O





On Feb 18, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

Chas-

Yes- that's it.  From left to right

Hillttopper           Arduino

J5 pin 1  ............. ground
J5 pin 2 .............. (no connection)
J5 pin 3 .............. 5V
J5 pin 4 .............. D0
J5 pin 5 ...............D1
J5 pin 6 ...............Reset

You need 5 male/female jumpers between the Hilltopper and the Arduino.  Each socket position on the Arduino is labeled as shown above. 

Important:  Remove the Arduino's ATmega328P  (28-pin DIP) and set it aside. 

- Dave

Charles W. Powell
 

The ’s’ is the tuning step. That was in the original code from Lloyd, WA4EFS.   I have the radio set for 500 Hz, 100 Hz, or 10 Hz tuning steps.  The RIT of course follows the the same ∆f as the main dial.  I think it’s possible to display the actual deviation of the RIT but that will require a little more research on my part - or arm twisting for help writing the code.

72,

Chas

On Feb 21, 2019, at 12:30 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

Chas-

What does the 's' stand for?

I'd set mine up (on an old project) to display '+' or '-'. RIT ON with no offset was a special case- I blanked the symbol.

- Dave


On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 1:22 PM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Programming changes to the Hilltopper display.  Again, nothing very creative and mostly cosmetic, but I get by with a little help from my friends (Bernie, K6NAZ).  Display now toggles RIT between off and on.  Now I’m going to work on making all three radios, 40-30-20, perform uniformly.

72,

Chas - NK8O


<IMG_20190221_121133756.jpeg><IMG_20190221_121141917.jpeg>



On Feb 18, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

Chas-

Yes- that's it.  From left to right

Hillttopper           Arduino

J5 pin 1  ............. ground
J5 pin 2 .............. (no connection)
J5 pin 3 .............. 5V
J5 pin 4 .............. D0
J5 pin 5 ...............D1
J5 pin 6 ...............Reset

You need 5 male/female jumpers between the Hilltopper and the Arduino.  Each socket position on the Arduino is labeled as shown above.  

Important:  Remove the Arduino's ATmega328P  (28-pin DIP) and set it aside.  

- Dave




Charles W. Powell
 

As it turns out Dave, if you want to add Hz to the end of the line, the characters don’t all fit if you leave the ’s’.  I just compiled the code for the HT-30 and there are too many characters for the line length.  Lloyd didn’t have the Hz designation.  One could also leave out the trailing ‘0’ in the display, since it doesn’t change.  All window dressing nonetheless.

Chas

On Feb 21, 2019, at 12:40 PM, Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp@...> wrote:

The ’s’ is the tuning step. That was in the original code from Lloyd, WA4EFS.   I have the radio set for 500 Hz, 100 Hz, or 10 Hz tuning steps.  The RIT of course follows the the same ∆f as the main dial.  I think it’s possible to display the actual deviation of the RIT but that will require a little more research on my part - or arm twisting for help writing the code.

72,

Chas

On Feb 21, 2019, at 12:30 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

Chas-

What does the 's' stand for?

I'd set mine up (on an old project) to display '+' or '-'. RIT ON with no offset was a special case- I blanked the symbol.

- Dave


On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 1:22 PM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Programming changes to the Hilltopper display.  Again, nothing very creative and mostly cosmetic, but I get by with a little help from my friends (Bernie, K6NAZ).  Display now toggles RIT between off and on.  Now I’m going to work on making all three radios, 40-30-20, perform uniformly.

72,

Chas - NK8O


<IMG_20190221_121133756.jpeg><IMG_20190221_121141917.jpeg>



On Feb 18, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

Chas-

Yes- that's it.  From left to right

Hillttopper           Arduino

J5 pin 1  ............. ground
J5 pin 2 .............. (no connection)
J5 pin 3 .............. 5V
J5 pin 4 .............. D0
J5 pin 5 ...............D1
J5 pin 6 ...............Reset

You need 5 male/female jumpers between the Hilltopper and the Arduino.  Each socket position on the Arduino is labeled as shown above.  

Important:  Remove the Arduino's ATmega328P  (28-pin DIP) and set it aside.  

- Dave

Dave Benson
 

Thanks, Chas!



On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 2:05 PM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
As it turns out Dave, if you want to add Hz to the end of the line, the characters don’t all fit if you leave the ’s’.  I just compiled the code for the HT-30 and there are too many characters for the line length.  Lloyd didn’t have the Hz designation.  One could also leave out the trailing ‘0’ in the display, since it doesn’t change.  All window dressing nonetheless.

Chas

On Feb 21, 2019, at 12:40 PM, Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp@...> wrote:

The ’s’ is the tuning step. That was in the original code from Lloyd, WA4EFS.   I have the radio set for 500 Hz, 100 Hz, or 10 Hz tuning steps.  The RIT of course follows the the same ∆f as the main dial.  I think it’s possible to display the actual deviation of the RIT but that will require a little more research on my part - or arm twisting for help writing the code.

72,

Chas

On Feb 21, 2019, at 12:30 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

Chas-

What does the 's' stand for?

I'd set mine up (on an old project) to display '+' or '-'. RIT ON with no offset was a special case- I blanked the symbol.

- Dave


On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 1:22 PM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Programming changes to the Hilltopper display.  Again, nothing very creative and mostly cosmetic, but I get by with a little help from my friends (Bernie, K6NAZ).  Display now toggles RIT between off and on.  Now I’m going to work on making all three radios, 40-30-20, perform uniformly.

72,

Chas - NK8O


<IMG_20190221_121133756.jpeg><IMG_20190221_121141917.jpeg>



On Feb 18, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

Chas-

Yes- that's it.  From left to right

Hillttopper           Arduino

J5 pin 1  ............. ground
J5 pin 2 .............. (no connection)
J5 pin 3 .............. 5V
J5 pin 4 .............. D0
J5 pin 5 ...............D1
J5 pin 6 ...............Reset

You need 5 male/female jumpers between the Hilltopper and the Arduino.  Each socket position on the Arduino is labeled as shown above.  

Important:  Remove the Arduino's ATmega328P  (28-pin DIP) and set it aside.  

- Dave

WA4EFS
 

‘s’ for ‘step’ – The displays look very nice. Have you described the RIT implementation somewhere?

 

-Lloyd

 

From: HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io [mailto:HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dave Benson
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2019 1:30 PM
To: HilltopperKit@4sqrp.groups.io
Subject: Re: [HilltopperKit] programming the Hilltopper Arduino chip

 

Chas-

 

What does the 's' stand for?

 

I'd set mine up (on an old project) to display '+' or '-'. RIT ON with no offset was a special case- I blanked the symbol.

 

- Dave

 

 

On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 1:22 PM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Programming changes to the Hilltopper display.  Again, nothing very creative and mostly cosmetic, but I get by with a little help from my friends (Bernie, K6NAZ).  Display now toggles RIT between off and on.  Now I’m going to work on making all three radios, 40-30-20, perform uniformly.

 

72,

 

Chas - NK8O

 

 

 





On Feb 18, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

 

Chas-

 

Yes- that's it.  From left to right

 

Hillttopper           Arduino

 

J5 pin 1  ............. ground

J5 pin 2 .............. (no connection)

J5 pin 3 .............. 5V

J5 pin 4 .............. D0

J5 pin 5 ...............D1

J5 pin 6 ...............Reset

 

You need 5 male/female jumpers between the Hilltopper and the Arduino.  Each socket position on the Arduino is labeled as shown above. 

 

Important:  Remove the Arduino's ATmega328P  (28-pin DIP) and set it aside. 

 

- Dave

 

WA4EFS
 

Oops.  Guess I should read the manual—must have skipped that page. J

 

From: HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io [mailto:HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io] On Behalf Of WA4EFS
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2019 3:23 PM
To: HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io
Subject: Re: [HilltopperKit] programming the Hilltopper Arduino chip

 

‘s’ for ‘step’ – The displays look very nice. Have you described the RIT implementation somewhere?

 

-Lloyd

 

From: HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io [mailto:HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dave Benson
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2019 1:30 PM
To: HilltopperKit@4sqrp.groups.io
Subject: Re: [HilltopperKit] programming the Hilltopper Arduino chip

 

Chas-

 

What does the 's' stand for?

 

I'd set mine up (on an old project) to display '+' or '-'. RIT ON with no offset was a special case- I blanked the symbol.

 

- Dave

 

 

On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 1:22 PM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Programming changes to the Hilltopper display.  Again, nothing very creative and mostly cosmetic, but I get by with a little help from my friends (Bernie, K6NAZ).  Display now toggles RIT between off and on.  Now I’m going to work on making all three radios, 40-30-20, perform uniformly.

 

72,

 

Chas - NK8O

 

 

 

 

 

On Feb 18, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:

 

Chas-

 

Yes- that's it.  From left to right

 

Hillttopper           Arduino

 

J5 pin 1  ............. ground

J5 pin 2 .............. (no connection)

J5 pin 3 .............. 5V

J5 pin 4 .............. D0

J5 pin 5 ...............D1

J5 pin 6 ...............Reset

 

You need 5 male/female jumpers between the Hilltopper and the Arduino.  Each socket position on the Arduino is labeled as shown above. 

 

Important:  Remove the Arduino's ATmega328P  (28-pin DIP) and set it aside. 

 

- Dave

 

Charles W. Powell
 

I have to drive this evening but in the next day or so I will post the code with my modifications.  I just finished the 20 meter code (had to install headers on the HT-20 board) and it seems to work as expected.

72,

Chas - NK8O

On Feb 21, 2019, at 4:59 PM, WA4EFS <himself@...> wrote:

Oops.  Guess I should read the manual—must have skipped that page. J
 
From: HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io [mailto:HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io] On Behalf Of WA4EFS
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2019 3:23 PM
To: HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io
Subject: Re: [HilltopperKit] programming the Hilltopper Arduino chip
 
‘s’ for ‘step’ – The displays look very nice. Have you described the RIT implementation somewhere?
 
-Lloyd
 
From: HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io [mailto:HilltopperKit@4SQRP.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dave Benson
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2019 1:30 PM
To: HilltopperKit@4sqrp.groups.io
Subject: Re: [HilltopperKit] programming the Hilltopper Arduino chip
 
Chas-
 
What does the 's' stand for?
 
I'd set mine up (on an old project) to display '+' or '-'. RIT ON with no offset was a special case- I blanked the symbol.
 
- Dave
 
 
On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 1:22 PM Charles W. Powell via Groups.Io <doctorcwp=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Programming changes to the Hilltopper display.  Again, nothing very creative and mostly cosmetic, but I get by with a little help from my friends (Bernie, K6NAZ).  Display now toggles RIT between off and on.  Now I’m going to work on making all three radios, 40-30-20, perform uniformly.
 
72,
 
Chas - NK8O
 
 
<image001.jpg><image002.jpg>
 

 

 

On Feb 18, 2019, at 1:06 PM, Dave Benson <davek1swl@...> wrote:
 
Chas-
 
Yes- that's it.  From left to right
 
Hillttopper           Arduino
 
J5 pin 1  ............. ground
J5 pin 2 .............. (no connection)
J5 pin 3 .............. 5V
J5 pin 4 .............. D0
J5 pin 5 ...............D1
J5 pin 6 ...............Reset
 
You need 5 male/female jumpers between the Hilltopper and the Arduino.  Each socket position on the Arduino is labeled as shown above.  
 
Important:  Remove the Arduino's ATmega328P  (28-pin DIP) and set it aside.  
 
- Dave
 


Curt
 

Keep thinking about Kd1JV's open source code here: http://kd1jv.qrpradio.com/XMEGA/XMEGA.htm.  Wondering if the code could be adapted to run a Hilltopper.  I know there are some additional push buttons needed for all of the functions, but that is a fairly low hurdle. The notes say just load something called "FLIP" from Atmel site onto laptop and eventually load provided code through USB to controller. The provided code is Assembly language.

I built an ATS-3B years ago ( kick myself for selling it ) and the functionality with five momentary push buttons was breathtaking.  I believe it was running this code.  Besides the audible frequency it had a single digit display that displayed the frequency.  And a multiple memory iambic keyer. 

Guess as is typical of some hams, am always thinking about modifying stuff.

Curt KB5JO