It wasn't the tuning pot that might need trimming, it is the rotary switch.
The tuning pot has to be elevated off the PCB a bit so that there is enough shaft for the knob to grab.
regarding the ATTEN control - that was an executive decision, at least in my prototype. CW rotation = more signal, just like the VOLUME control. When I first showed the proto I had it wired so that full CCW was minimum attenuation, and the folks who were playing with it remarked that it worked backwards - hi - so I turned it around and left the labeling as is. Tried to tell them is was designed for the Southern Hemisphere... but that dog wouldn't hunt..
---In 4sqrp@..., <djwilcox01@...> wrote :
Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob? I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune. At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter. Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.
Another question: why does the attenuator pot work backwards? I would think, clockwise = more attenuation. Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position. Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.
Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency. 7 .03 .05 1.0 etc. I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.