It wasn't the tuning pot that might need trimming, it is
the rotary switch.
The tuning pot has to be elevated off the PCB a bit so
that there is enough shaft for the knob to grab.
regarding the ATTEN control - that was an executive
decision, at least in my prototype. CW rotation = more
signal, just like the VOLUME control. When I first showed
the proto I had it wired so that full CCW was minimum
attenuation, and the folks who were playing with it
remarked that it worked backwards - hi - so I turned it
around and left the labeling as is. Tried to tell them is
was designed for the Southern Hemisphere... but that dog
Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?
I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because
my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I
put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable
in staying on frequency and easier to tune. At first
I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to
prevent scratching it but it works better down
tighter. Might put a piece of felt behind it like the
knobs of yore.
Another question: why does the attenuator pot work
backwards? I would think, clockwise = more
attenuation. Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock
position. Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max
at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.
Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on
the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on
numbers somehow relating to the frequency. 7 .03 .05
1.0 etc. I think I could do it or if someone was good
with Word or some printing program print out a ring
that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or
something we could make a chart for.