15 turns through L1 (basically as many turns of 24 ga, insulated wire as I could reasonably get through the toroid after the L1a and L1b had been wrapped). Solid core insulated telephone wire worked really well. You can see it in the pictures.
I ran the audio from the Freq-mite through a 100k ohm resister and to the center pin of R5, (between C2 and R5 on the schematic)
From the pictures you can see several modifications I've made. On the left is a small variable capacitor to replace the gimmick, a potentiometer to control the loudness of the freq-mite (replaced the 100k resistor), and a potentiometer to control the LM386 audio amp on the back end of a 4SQRP Hi-Per mite filter. You can also see on the left the backend of a momentary toggle switch to control the Freq-mite.
I built the Ozark Patrol stock, then added parts and pieces one at a time, often with temporary wiring as I figured things out. I'm now neatening the wiring up. Then I'll add daisy chained SSB Mite (minus it's audio amp) and a Hi-per Mite. The toggle switches on the right allow me to select any, both, or none of the Mites as filters. All of the audio output goes through the LM386 at the back end of the Hi-per Mite which is controlled by the potentiometer on the left (mentioned above) as kind of a master volume. Sort of a - turn it up to listen through the speaker and down to listen through the headphones then control the volume through the knob on the front panel. I probably could have done it with a switch and two resistors.
One other thing to note, if you drill your Ozark Patrol front panel, drill from the front to the back. See the light colored area around the three toggle switches that I added? That's the clear coat coming up in a kind of blister. That happens when the drill bit comes through the panel. Doesn't hurt anything but it would look ugly on the front.