Date   

Re: BJ question

David Wilcox
 

Sorry about the knob error.  I hadn't noticed that the switch knob was too high.  It works as is and the chicken knob is easy to grab with my fumble fingers.  Also, I will leave the atten pot as is.  This radio is a hoot.  Can't wait to take it to our local radio club to see the eyes roll just like my wife.  I did take the club pres to FDIM last year and now he is eager to go this year, so am seeing some converts.  Thanks to 4SQRP and all the builders who have added to the knowledge base.

Dave K8WPE

On Feb 2, 2017, at 10:48 PM, Brian Ford kf4tap@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:

 

.???, okay I just happy to have knobs to chose from. I don't care if the say GE and have tempature ranges. 


Keith 
Kf4tap


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Thursday, February 2, 2017, 21:44, David Martin davemrtn@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:

 

Maybe that explains why the tuning pot is wired backwards and requires pcb mods to make it right ??  Just my opinion too.  But I did mod my tuning pot so '10' on the knob is the higher freq and '1' is the lower freq.


David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. -----------------------------------------
On 2/2/2017 20:38, n5ib@... [4sqrp] wrote:
 

It wasn't the tuning pot that might need trimming, it is the rotary switch.
The tuning pot has to be elevated off the PCB a bit so that there is enough shaft for the knob to grab.

regarding the ATTEN control - that was an executive decision, at least in my prototype. CW rotation = more signal, just like the VOLUME control.  When I first showed the proto I had it wired so that full CCW was minimum attenuation, and the folks who were playing with it remarked that it worked backwards - hi - so I turned it around and left the labeling as is.  Tried to tell them is was designed for the Southern Hemisphere... but that dog wouldn't hunt..

N5IB
.



---In 4sqrp@..., wrote :

Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE


Re: BJ question

keith ford
 

.???, okay I just happy to have knobs to chose from. I don't care if the say GE and have tempature ranges. 

Keith 

On Thursday, February 2, 2017, 21:44, David Martin davemrtn@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:

 

Maybe that explains why the tuning pot is wired backwards and requires pcb mods to make it right ??  Just my opinion too.  But I did mod my tuning pot so '10' on the knob is the higher freq and '1' is the lower freq.


David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. -----------------------------------------
On 2/2/2017 20:38, n5ib@... [4sqrp] wrote:
 

It wasn't the tuning pot that might need trimming, it is the rotary switch.
The tuning pot has to be elevated off the PCB a bit so that there is enough shaft for the knob to grab.

regarding the ATTEN control - that was an executive decision, at least in my prototype. CW rotation = more signal, just like the VOLUME control.  When I first showed the proto I had it wired so that full CCW was minimum attenuation, and the folks who were playing with it remarked that it worked backwards - hi - so I turned it around and left the labeling as is.  Tried to tell them is was designed for the Southern Hemisphere... but that dog wouldn't hunt..

N5IB
.



---In 4sqrp@..., wrote :

Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE


Re: BJ question

David Martin <davemrtn@...>
 

Maybe that explains why the tuning pot is wired backwards and requires pcb mods to make it right ??  Just my opinion too.  But I did mod my tuning pot so '10' on the knob is the higher freq and '1' is the lower freq.


David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. -----------------------------------------

On 2/2/2017 20:38, n5ib@... [4sqrp] wrote:
 

It wasn't the tuning pot that might need trimming, it is the rotary switch.
The tuning pot has to be elevated off the PCB a bit so that there is enough shaft for the knob to grab.

regarding the ATTEN control - that was an executive decision, at least in my prototype. CW rotation = more signal, just like the VOLUME control.  When I first showed the proto I had it wired so that full CCW was minimum attenuation, and the folks who were playing with it remarked that it worked backwards - hi - so I turned it around and left the labeling as is.  Tried to tell them is was designed for the Southern Hemisphere... but that dog wouldn't hunt..

N5IB
.



---In 4sqrp@..., wrote :

Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE


BJ

Everett Catlin
 

Hi all I am a new member. Saving my pennies for BJ hi hi retired now and money tight. Great group and special Hi to Jim N5Ib.

73
N5MZX
Everett catlin


Re: BJ question

 

* On 2017 02 Feb 18:37 -0600, David Martin davemrtn@... [4sqrp] wrote:

It has been bugging me too when I 'turn up' (Clockwise) the "ATTEN" control
the signal goes up.
I've never even thought about it as it works similarly enough to the
usual RF Gain control on superhets that it seems natural to me.

72, Nate

--

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds. The pessimist fears this is true."

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us


Re: BJ question

n5ib_2
 

It wasn't the tuning pot that might need trimming, it is the rotary switch.
The tuning pot has to be elevated off the PCB a bit so that there is enough shaft for the knob to grab.

regarding the ATTEN control - that was an executive decision, at least in my prototype. CW rotation = more signal, just like the VOLUME control.  When I first showed the proto I had it wired so that full CCW was minimum attenuation, and the folks who were playing with it remarked that it worked backwards - hi - so I turned it around and left the labeling as is.  Tried to tell them is was designed for the Southern Hemisphere... but that dog wouldn't hunt..

N5IB
.


---In 4sqrp@..., <djwilcox01@...> wrote :

Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE


Re: BJ question

David Martin <davemrtn@...>
 

I guess we have 2 options.

Cut traces and swap ends on the pot, or put a sticky label on the panel and call it 'Gain', though it really isn't causing any increased gain !!  Unfortunately, the way the CCW lead of the pot was grounded, there is no trace that is easily severed.  Once built the pot would have to be removed so the CCW lead can be bent and disconnected from ground.

You have a good point though.

It has been bugging me too when I 'turn up' (Clockwise) the "ATTEN" control the signal goes up.


David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. -----------------------------------------

On 2/2/2017 17:01, David Wilcox djwilcox01@... [4sqrp] wrote:
 
Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE

On Feb 2, 2017, at 5:40 PM, CStratton groups@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:

 
Thanks Jim and Larry -

I chose to cut the tabs and through hole leads flush with the bottom of the pot so it would sit lower on the board. I passed small pieces of bare wire up through the pcb holes for the three leads to solder to the remnants of the pot leads. This provided plenty of room for the S38 venier shaft to clear the pot frame.

Chip
AE5KA

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 6:45 PM, Jim Sheldon <w0eb@...> wrote:
I used the normal standoffs, cut about 1/4 inch off the tuning pot shaft (maybe a little more) and inserted a couple washers under each standoff to adjust the height to the point that the vernier shaft would just work and still leave enough height on the other shafts to engage the setscrews on the knobs.

Jim 

On Jan 31, 2017, at 7:44 AM, CStratton <groups@...> wrote:

Hi Jim -

I'm trying the vernier dial mod to my BJ. To get an extra 1/8" of clearance for the shaft, I used 3/4" standoffs instead of the 5/8" standoffs. The work to let the vernier shaft just clear the pot, but now all of the other pot shafts are too short to be engaged by the supplied knobs.

Grinding the vernier shaft down would work, but to get 1/8" it looks like he set screw hole will be compromised.

What did you find on your build?

Thanks,
Chip
AE5KA

On Thu, Jan 5, 2017 at 7:49 PM, 'Jim Sheldon' w0eb@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:
 

I had a 1.5" diameter Philmore vernier dial laying around so I decided to see how difficult it would be to install for tuning the Bayou Jumper which is sort of fast and difficult, but not impossible, to get just right. 
 
First, it was necessary to drill out the hole in the panel for the tuning pot to a diameter of 7/16" to allow for clearance of the shaft coupler on the vernier.  Next, it was necessary to cut the tuning pot shaft down to just over 1/4" long and the bottom of the shaft coupler still bottomed out on the frame of the pot, leaving the base of the vernier mechanism about 1/8" above the panel.  There are two options here, grind down the shaft coupler until the vernier sits flush with the panel and the coupler doesn't bind on the frame of the pot or use 1/8" or so of spacers between the panel mounting standoffs and the panel (easier at assembly time to add the spacers between the main PC board and the bottom of the standoffs).  The mounting holes for the vernier must be carefully laid out and drilled for 2-56 screws and 2 of these are used to mount it to the panel.
 
Before re-assembling the panel/pc board combination, set the shaft on the tuning pot to mid range and the vernier to midrange (#50).  Carefully fit everything into place, tighten all the panel mounting screws and other top side hardware just like you did on the initial assembly.  Next, very carefully tighten the set screw on the vernier's shaft coupler to lock it to the tuning shaft of the pot.  You will only have 180 degrees of rotation rather than the full 270 degrees but this should fall within the 7020 to 7130 range assuming you had done the calibration steps earlier.
 
I used the 1.5" Philmore S38 vernier.  The S50 is a 2" diameter dial and these are also available for somewhere around the same price or just a little more.  The S38 is the ideal one as it fits within all original markings on the Bayou Jumper's panel where the S50 will cover the word Tuning and the top will extend into, if not completely cover the original V shaped pointer at top center. 
 
It's a daunting modification and probably most won't do it, but it does really slow down the tuning and makes it much easier to tune in a CW station and it's now actually possible to also tune in the SSB stations at the high end if they fall within the tuning range.  The radio is quite stable and once tuned to a frequency I didn't observe any drift after a couple minutes of warm up.  Super job by the designers.
 
Jim - W0EB
 
 
It actually looks pretty decent mounted on the radio - helps a lot with ease of tuning in a signal.
 
 
Closer picture of the installed Philmore S38 vernier dial




BJ question

David Wilcox
 

Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE

On Feb 2, 2017, at 5:40 PM, CStratton groups@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Jim and Larry -

I chose to cut the tabs and through hole leads flush with the bottom of the pot so it would sit lower on the board. I passed small pieces of bare wire up through the pcb holes for the three leads to solder to the remnants of the pot leads. This provided plenty of room for the S38 venier shaft to clear the pot frame.

Chip
AE5KA

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 6:45 PM, Jim Sheldon <w0eb@...> wrote:
I used the normal standoffs, cut about 1/4 inch off the tuning pot shaft (maybe a little more) and inserted a couple washers under each standoff to adjust the height to the point that the vernier shaft would just work and still leave enough height on the other shafts to engage the setscrews on the knobs.

Jim 

On Jan 31, 2017, at 7:44 AM, CStratton <groups@...> wrote:

Hi Jim -

I'm trying the vernier dial mod to my BJ. To get an extra 1/8" of clearance for the shaft, I used 3/4" standoffs instead of the 5/8" standoffs. The work to let the vernier shaft just clear the pot, but now all of the other pot shafts are too short to be engaged by the supplied knobs.

Grinding the vernier shaft down would work, but to get 1/8" it looks like he set screw hole will be compromised.

What did you find on your build?

Thanks,
Chip
AE5KA

On Thu, Jan 5, 2017 at 7:49 PM, 'Jim Sheldon' w0eb@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:
 

I had a 1.5" diameter Philmore vernier dial laying around so I decided to see how difficult it would be to install for tuning the Bayou Jumper which is sort of fast and difficult, but not impossible, to get just right. 
 
First, it was necessary to drill out the hole in the panel for the tuning pot to a diameter of 7/16" to allow for clearance of the shaft coupler on the vernier.  Next, it was necessary to cut the tuning pot shaft down to just over 1/4" long and the bottom of the shaft coupler still bottomed out on the frame of the pot, leaving the base of the vernier mechanism about 1/8" above the panel.  There are two options here, grind down the shaft coupler until the vernier sits flush with the panel and the coupler doesn't bind on the frame of the pot or use 1/8" or so of spacers between the panel mounting standoffs and the panel (easier at assembly time to add the spacers between the main PC board and the bottom of the standoffs).  The mounting holes for the vernier must be carefully laid out and drilled for 2-56 screws and 2 of these are used to mount it to the panel.
 
Before re-assembling the panel/pc board combination, set the shaft on the tuning pot to mid range and the vernier to midrange (#50).  Carefully fit everything into place, tighten all the panel mounting screws and other top side hardware just like you did on the initial assembly.  Next, very carefully tighten the set screw on the vernier's shaft coupler to lock it to the tuning shaft of the pot.  You will only have 180 degrees of rotation rather than the full 270 degrees but this should fall within the 7020 to 7130 range assuming you had done the calibration steps earlier.
 
I used the 1.5" Philmore S38 vernier.  The S50 is a 2" diameter dial and these are also available for somewhere around the same price or just a little more.  The S38 is the ideal one as it fits within all original markings on the Bayou Jumper's panel where the S50 will cover the word Tuning and the top will extend into, if not completely cover the original V shaped pointer at top center. 
 
It's a daunting modification and probably most won't do it, but it does really slow down the tuning and makes it much easier to tune in a CW station and it's now actually possible to also tune in the SSB stations at the high end if they fall within the tuning range.  The radio is quite stable and once tuned to a frequency I didn't observe any drift after a couple minutes of warm up.  Super job by the designers.
 
Jim - W0EB
 
 
It actually looks pretty decent mounted on the radio - helps a lot with ease of tuning in a signal.
 
 
Closer picture of the installed Philmore S38 vernier dial




Re: Another mod to the Bayou Jumper

random.path
 

Thanks Jim and Larry -

I chose to cut the tabs and through hole leads flush with the bottom of the pot so it would sit lower on the board. I passed small pieces of bare wire up through the pcb holes for the three leads to solder to the remnants of the pot leads. This provided plenty of room for the S38 venier shaft to clear the pot frame.

Chip
AE5KA

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 6:45 PM, Jim Sheldon <w0eb@...> wrote:
I used the normal standoffs, cut about 1/4 inch off the tuning pot shaft (maybe a little more) and inserted a couple washers under each standoff to adjust the height to the point that the vernier shaft would just work and still leave enough height on the other shafts to engage the setscrews on the knobs.

Jim 

On Jan 31, 2017, at 7:44 AM, CStratton <groups@...> wrote:

Hi Jim -

I'm trying the vernier dial mod to my BJ. To get an extra 1/8" of clearance for the shaft, I used 3/4" standoffs instead of the 5/8" standoffs. The work to let the vernier shaft just clear the pot, but now all of the other pot shafts are too short to be engaged by the supplied knobs.

Grinding the vernier shaft down would work, but to get 1/8" it looks like he set screw hole will be compromised.

What did you find on your build?

Thanks,
Chip
AE5KA

On Thu, Jan 5, 2017 at 7:49 PM, 'Jim Sheldon' w0eb@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:
 

I had a 1.5" diameter Philmore vernier dial laying around so I decided to see how difficult it would be to install for tuning the Bayou Jumper which is sort of fast and difficult, but not impossible, to get just right. 
 
First, it was necessary to drill out the hole in the panel for the tuning pot to a diameter of 7/16" to allow for clearance of the shaft coupler on the vernier.  Next, it was necessary to cut the tuning pot shaft down to just over 1/4" long and the bottom of the shaft coupler still bottomed out on the frame of the pot, leaving the base of the vernier mechanism about 1/8" above the panel.  There are two options here, grind down the shaft coupler until the vernier sits flush with the panel and the coupler doesn't bind on the frame of the pot or use 1/8" or so of spacers between the panel mounting standoffs and the panel (easier at assembly time to add the spacers between the main PC board and the bottom of the standoffs).  The mounting holes for the vernier must be carefully laid out and drilled for 2-56 screws and 2 of these are used to mount it to the panel.
 
Before re-assembling the panel/pc board combination, set the shaft on the tuning pot to mid range and the vernier to midrange (#50).  Carefully fit everything into place, tighten all the panel mounting screws and other top side hardware just like you did on the initial assembly.  Next, very carefully tighten the set screw on the vernier's shaft coupler to lock it to the tuning shaft of the pot.  You will only have 180 degrees of rotation rather than the full 270 degrees but this should fall within the 7020 to 7130 range assuming you had done the calibration steps earlier.
 
I used the 1.5" Philmore S38 vernier.  The S50 is a 2" diameter dial and these are also available for somewhere around the same price or just a little more.  The S38 is the ideal one as it fits within all original markings on the Bayou Jumper's panel where the S50 will cover the word Tuning and the top will extend into, if not completely cover the original V shaped pointer at top center. 
 
It's a daunting modification and probably most won't do it, but it does really slow down the tuning and makes it much easier to tune in a CW station and it's now actually possible to also tune in the SSB stations at the high end if they fall within the tuning range.  The radio is quite stable and once tuned to a frequency I didn't observe any drift after a couple minutes of warm up.  Super job by the designers.
 
Jim - W0EB
 
 
It actually looks pretty decent mounted on the radio - helps a lot with ease of tuning in a signal.
 
 
Closer picture of the installed Philmore S38 vernier dial




Re: Norcal Doublet

keith ford
 

Interesting, I will have to save your notes. 

Keith 

On Thursday, February 2, 2017, 13:56, John Adams johnk4qq@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:

 

I live in an HOA subdivision and am severely restricted with reference to antennas. The 33ft. End fed wire is erected as a sloper running out of an upstairs bedroom to a small tree in the yard. The 33ft. counterpoise runs along the baseboard in the hall. SWR, as measured by the internal tuner in the Kx1 is as follows: 20m, 1.4; 30m, 1.0, 40 m, 1.0. This antenna is recommended by K1YPP who has done extensive portable operation, including walking the AT from Georgia to Maine, making at least one contact from each state. The speaker wire is not desirable as a permanent antenna due to exposure to the elements. I plan on replacing it later with AWG 26 stealth wire and using the speaker wire for portable operation. I have been a ham for 55 years and have especially enjoyed building and experimenting with antennas. 73, John

Sent from my iPad


Re: Norcal Doublet

John Adams <johnk4qq@...>
 

I live in an HOA subdivision and am severely restricted with reference to antennas. The 33ft. End fed wire is erected as a sloper running out of an upstairs bedroom to a small tree in the yard. The 33ft. counterpoise runs along the baseboard in the hall. SWR, as measured by the internal tuner in the Kx1 is as follows: 20m, 1.4; 30m, 1.0, 40 m, 1.0. This antenna is recommended by K1YPP who has done extensive portable operation, including walking the AT from Georgia to Maine, making at least one contact from each state. The speaker wire is not desirable as a permanent antenna due to exposure to the elements. I plan on replacing it later with AWG 26 stealth wire and using the speaker wire for portable operation. I have been a ham for 55 years and have especially enjoyed building and experimenting with antennas. 73, John

Sent from my iPad


Re: Norcal Doublet

Paul Smith
 

I have been reading with interest the talk of the Norcal Doublet not working well. I built 2 of them and they still live in my go kit antler box. One is built exactly like the Norcal article out of "ribbon wire" andf the other is fed with 300 ohm tv antenna wire. I tuned them both with the Norcal BLT tuner. In the spring I will see if the KX2 ATU will tune them. I have had good contacts on both using a Blackwidow crappie pole for support. YMMV de Paul N0NBD


Sent from Outlook




From: 4sqrp@... <4sqrp@...> on behalf of Bob Groh bob.groh@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...>
Sent: Thursday, February 2, 2017 5:21 PM
To: 4sqrp@...; johnk4qq@...
Subject: Re: [4sqrp] Norcal Doublet
 
 

John, could you provide a few details on your antenna and feed arrangement.   Is your 33 ft all vertical orientation?   I need to have something on 40M and getting 20M would be a bonus.

73
Bob Groh, WA2CKY

On Thu, Feb 2, 2017 at 9:11 AM, johnk4qq@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:
 

Thanks for the response to my post.  Have given up on Norcal Doublet and erected 33ft long  wire with counterpoise.  SWR good on 20 and 30 and flat on 40 (my favorite band). 73, John, K4QQ

 

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Re: Norcal Doublet

Curt
 

John

interesting - maybe the feedline was giving you issue perhaps, so you got rid of it? 

it is not completely insuitive - but the Norcal doublet sought to make an antenna without having twin-lead to feed it.  the feed method is similar, except for the 2 extra conductors in-between.  being in-between the feedline, those extra conductors should not radiate much - but how everything is connected inside the shack could have some impact. 

sometimes when a balanced feedline is very close to a quarterwavelength it can cause problems, so its a possibly explanation for high SWR on 40m.  do note such an antenna is expected to not have a good VSWR, as the feedline impedance may not match the antenna feed impedance.  

as for your 'counterpoise' - note that likely it is also a radiator.  if it is inside your house, how much of its radiation is useful may be low. 

keep in mind that a good VSWR is not a measure of an effective antenna -- in fact the 'best' VSWR could be from a 50 ohm resistor! 

there is both art and science to developing a useful radiator.  possibly the norcal doublet may have worked reasonably with a different feedline length, but it would be better if you found (or made) some twin lead or open wire line.  folk have use end-fed antennas for a long time - but do expect some radiation from your counterpoise.  you may with to explore the end fed half wave antenna - but please note it requires a special matching network to work effectively.  antennas need not be 'ideal' - as I use a ladder-line fed off-center feed arrangement with my 20/30/40m rig to provide all 3 bands.  okay for QRP CW, I would not want to use for high power SSB for example. 

73 Curt


Re: Norcal Doublet

wa2cky
 

John, could you provide a few details on your antenna and feed arrangement.   Is your 33 ft all vertical orientation?   I need to have something on 40M and getting 20M would be a bonus.

73
Bob Groh, WA2CKY

On Thu, Feb 2, 2017 at 9:11 AM, johnk4qq@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:
 

Thanks for the response to my post.  Have given up on Norcal Doublet and erected 33ft long  wire with counterpoise.  SWR good on 20 and 30 and flat on 40 (my favorite band). 73, John, K4QQ

 

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Re: Norcal Doublet

Ron Hayes <ka2rrz@...>
 

How long was your counterpoise ?


On Thursday, February 2, 2017 9:12 AM, "johnk4qq@... [4sqrp]" <4sqrp@...> wrote:


 
Thanks for the response to my post.  Have given up on Norcal Doublet and erected 33ft long  wire with counterpoise.  SWR good on 20 and 30 and flat on 40 (my favorite band). 73, John, K4QQ
 
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Norcal Doublet

johnk4qq@...
 

Thanks for the response to my post.  Have given up on Norcal Doublet and erected 33ft long  wire with counterpoise.  SWR good on 20 and 30 and flat on 40 (my favorite band). 73, John, K4QQ

 

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New net format...

Wayne Dillon
 

Good morning all,
The "new" net format, i.e. building a list and then calling each station in turn seemed to work OK last evening. I have to say it's not a method I came up with, rather a method that Charles (W2SH) tutored me in last year and now it seems so natural a way to work. So, a big public thank you to Charles for taking the time to guide me and be a steadying hand, it is much appreciated. This will therefore be the format going forward. Also I am using N3FJP's AC Log to do general logging which has a great "NET" feature which allows the building of the list as well as adding all the relevant data. Also, it's compatible with the data out of all my radios except the single band jobbies (MFJ 9020/QRP Plus/ SWnn+ series) which helps my fogging aged mind remember to put the frequency etc. in the relevent boxes. If you're looking for a great logging program I'd like to suggest that you look at Scott's product. No I have no connection to this product except being a very satisfied customer.
I'll likely hang out on 7.122 over the weekend daylight hours, as often as other "stuff" permits, switching to 3564 as the gray line passes and night falls.
Vy 72/3 es God Bless all de Wayne - NQ0RP

--
 
QRP -  EFFICIENCY AND SKILL, NOT POWER. 
 
I'm British by birth but American by CHOICE!

Jesus came to pay a debt He didn't owe because we owe a debt we cannot pay...

The Lord bless you and keep you
The Lord make His face shine upon you, and be gracious unto you
The Lord lift up his contenance upon you and give you peace.

God Bless from Wayne Dillon - NQ0RP

Joshua 24:14-15
2 Cor 5:17
1 Jn 2:17
 
Membership Chairman - 4SQRP Group
4SQRP 40m NCS
4SQRP #95
FISTS 17184
FPQRP #342 (Flying Pigs QRP Club)
G-QRP-11504
NAQCC # 0759
QRP-ARCI #11505
SKCC #1155T
SOC #848
30MDG#1176
NEQRP #693
GORC #192
DMC (Digital Modes Club) # 06686
Zombie# 1186


Re: QRP 4 SALE

 

SORRY GUYS,
KIT IS A 20 METER FOX-3 AND PUTS OUT A HAIR OVER 1 WATT MEASURED ON A WELTZ WATT METER @  12 VOLTS
BOB  AF2DX
 

In a message dated 2/1/2017 10:20:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 4sqrp@... writes:
 

Hey Bob, Rocky Weeks, AF5AF here.

What is the kit worth to you.  I have no idea what to offer. 

I have another Kanga kit waiting to be assembled...and yours seems like a logical prgression.

Besides, being able to tote around an HF TXer in your shirt pocket is just too cool.

No insult intended but would $20 or so plus shipping be enough?  Of course method of payment would be your choice.

Thanks,

RWeeks


On 02/01/2017 08:29 PM, beargyrils@... [4sqrp] wrote:
 

Hi Gang,
After 42 years of ham radio seems the Sun will ay at low levels.
I worked the world and even worked Egypt and VK land with my old MFJ rigs using the window mount antenna.
So cleaning up I found a nice FoXX-3 and it's looking for a home
Still sealed in the plastic bag and never opened
Severe antenna restrictions here do not allow for any contacts.
Make offer + shipping
72/73 BOB  AF2DX


Re: QRP 4 SALE

RCWeeks <neotoxo54@...>
 

Hey Bob, Rocky Weeks, AF5AF here.

What is the kit worth to you.� I have no idea what to offer.�

I have another Kanga kit waiting to be assembled...and yours seems like a logical prgression.

Besides, being able to tote around an HF TXer in your shirt pocket is just too cool.

No insult intended but would $20 or so plus shipping be enough?� Of course method of payment would be your choice.

Thanks,

RWeeks


On 02/01/2017 08:29 PM, beargyrils@... [4sqrp] wrote:
�

Hi Gang,
After 42 years of ham radio�seems the Sun will ay at low levels.
I worked the world and even worked Egypt and VK land with my old MFJ rigs using the window mount antenna.
So cleaning up I found a nice FoXX-3 and it's looking for a home
Still sealed in the plastic bag and never opened
Severe antenna restrictions here do not allow for any contacts.
Make offer + shipping
72/73 BOB� AF2DX


Re: Home Brew Hand Key Finished

Rick Bennett
 

Nicely done, Jim

de KC0PET, Rick



From: "'Jim Sheldon' w0eb@... [4sqrp]" <4sqrp@...>
To: "4SQRP Mailing List" <4sqrp@...>
Sent: Wednesday, February 1, 2017 1:14:02 PM
Subject: [4sqrp] Home Brew Hand Key Finished

 

Got the Orange Kirinite knob finished a few minutes ago, mated it with
the skirt & mounted them on the key - came out pretty. Didn't like that
8-32 nut locking the upper contact in place so I machined the skirt off
a brass knurled nut like those on the adjustment screws and used that
instead. Looks a lot better. Changed the cable to a smaller diameter
one that's very flexible and put a decent strain relief on it.

Also got it's little brother in from Morse Express this morning. To go
in my Bayou Jumper case, I bought one of their last remaining 2005
"Christmas" keys and it's a cute little bugger. The return spring was
WAAAAY too heavy though even at it's lightest setting and I wound up
having to clip 2 turns off of it to make it comfortable to send with.
It's even 18 carat gold plated! I don't particularly care for the round
top wood knob, but it is what it is and it does work for sending CW -
LOL.

Jim - W0EB