Date   

Re: End Fed Wire (Was NorCal Doublet)

Bry Carling <af4k@...>
 


You will find that 124.5 foot wire works on ALL HF bands

- if it is anything like the one used by WB4DBO.

(As seen on his QRZ page.)


Mine is 100 feet long with the 9:1 transformer, but also works excellently! I think UNUN is a bit of a misnomer. It;s just a transformer and everything happens to be relatively unbalanced - coax on one side and a single wire on the other side! Yup, it had me confused too!


It's the best all around antenna I ever used in 48 years of hamming. What got my attention was the excellent signal I ALWAYS heard from WB4DBO on it!


73 - Bry AF4K



From: 4sqrp@... <4sqrp@...> on behalf of Wayne Dillon wayne.dillon@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...>
Sent: Friday, February 3, 2017 11:50 AM
To: 4sqrp@...
Subject: [4sqrp] Re: End Fed Wire (Was NorCal Doublet)
 
 

Just to add my $0.02 worth.
I needed a wire to operate 80m so I went with a 124' 6" length fed via a 9:1 unun, works a treat on 80, loads on 160 as well, (as well as all the other bands up to 6m). Starts off at around 10' agl (unun is in the attic) with the far end at around 30'. The unun is at one end of the house, the shack at the other so coax from ASTU to unun is around 80'. Gets ny 5 watts from SE Kansas to NJ. Works for me. My other "go to" antennas are a 66' wire +33' counterpoise and a W3EDP fed with a 4:1 BalUn.
Just a few more ideas to keep the pot boiling.
Blessings all
Wayne - NQ0RP

--
 
QRP -  EFFICIENCY AND SKILL, NOT POWER. 
 
I'm British by birth but American by CHOICE!

Jesus came to pay a debt He didn't owe because we owe a debt we cannot pay...

The Lord bless you and keep you
The Lord make His face shine upon you, and be gracious unto you
The Lord lift up his contenance upon you and give you peace.

God Bless from Wayne Dillon - NQ0RP

Joshua 24:14-15
2 Cor 5:17
1 Jn 2:17
 
www.4sqrp.com
Welcome to the web home of the Four States QRP Group, devoted to low power (QRP) amateur radio building and operation. Club Call Sign WQ5RP
Membership Chairman - 4SQRP Group
4SQRP 40m NCS
4SQRP #95
FISTS 17184
FPQRP #342 (Flying Pigs QRP Club)
G-QRP-11504
NAQCC # 0759
QRP-ARCI #11505
SKCC #1155T
SOC #848
30MDG#1176
NEQRP #693
GORC #192
DMC (Digital Modes Club) # 06686
Zombie# 1186


Re: Apidistra

Bry Carling <af4k@...>
 

I never heard of it. Where in England or Scotland was it exactly? And what was being broadcast on it until 1982?




From: 4sqrp@... <4sqrp@...> on behalf of David Martin davemrtn@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...>
Sent: Friday, February 3, 2017 2:14 PM
To: 4sqrp@...
Subject: [4sqrp] Apidistra
 
 

Reading "The Secret Wireless War", I see that the Apidistra transmitter was shut down for the final time in September of 1982.


I am very disappointed I was completely unaware of this transmitter at that time, or the part it played during WWII.


While working for Timex Corp., I was in England & Scotland during 1982 and had an extended stay from September to December of 1982.  At the very least, on a weekend I might have been able to drive to the site of that transmitter and seen it "in the flesh" before it was dismantled and sold for scrap.
--
David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. -----------------------------------------


Apidistra

David Martin <davemrtn@...>
 

Reading "The Secret Wireless War", I see that the Apidistra transmitter was shut down for the final time in September of 1982.


I am very disappointed I was completely unaware of this transmitter at that time, or the part it played during WWII.


While working for Timex Corp., I was in England & Scotland during 1982 and had an extended stay from September to December of 1982.  At the very least, on a weekend I might have been able to drive to the site of that transmitter and seen it "in the flesh" before it was dismantled and sold for scrap.
--
David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. -----------------------------------------


Apidistra

David Martin <davemrtn@...>
 

Reading "The Secret Wireless War", I see that the Apidistra transmitter was shut down for the final time in September of 1982.


I am very disappointed I was completely unaware of this transmitter at that time, or the part it played during WWII.


While working for Timex Corp., I was in England & Scotland during 1982 and had an extended stay from September to December of 1982.  At the very least, on a weekend I might have been able to drive to the site of that transmitter and seen it "in the flesh" before it was dismantled and sold for scrap.


--
David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. -----------------------------------------


Re: BJ

WA0ITP
 

Welcome Everett.  A great group of knowledgeable and friendly hams hang out here.  Glad you joined and pse don't hesitate to post a note anytime you like.
72 WAØITP
I love this radio stuff.
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
On 2/3/2017 11:04 AM, Wayne Dillon wayne.dillon@... [4sqrp] wrote:

 
Welcome aboard Everett, look forward to hearing you on the air.
Enjoy!
Vy 72/3 es God Bless de Wayne - NQ0RP

On Thu, Feb 2, 2017 at 9:14 PM, Everett Catlin everettcatlin@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:
 
Hi all I am a new member. Saving my pennies for BJ hi hi retired now and money tight. Great group and special Hi to Jim N5Ib.

73
N5MZX
Everett catlin



--
 
QRP -  EFFICIENCY AND SKILL, NOT POWER. 
 
I'm British by birth but American by CHOICE!

Jesus came to pay a debt He didn't owe because we owe a debt we cannot pay...

The Lord bless you and keep you
The Lord make His face shine upon you, and be gracious unto you
The Lord lift up his contenance upon you and give you peace.

God Bless from Wayne Dillon - NQ0RP

Joshua 24:14-15
2 Cor 5:17
1 Jn 2:17
 
Membership Chairman - 4SQRP Group
4SQRP 40m NCS
4SQRP #95
FISTS 17184
FPQRP #342 (Flying Pigs QRP Club)
G-QRP-11504
NAQCC # 0759
QRP-ARCI #11505
SKCC #1155T
SOC #848
30MDG#1176
NEQRP #693
GORC #192
DMC (Digital Modes Club) # 06686
Zombie# 1186


Re: BJ

Wayne Dillon
 

Welcome aboard Everett, look forward to hearing you on the air.
Enjoy!
Vy 72/3 es God Bless de Wayne - NQ0RP

On Thu, Feb 2, 2017 at 9:14 PM, Everett Catlin everettcatlin@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:
 

Hi all I am a new member. Saving my pennies for BJ hi hi retired now and money tight. Great group and special Hi to Jim N5Ib.

73
N5MZX
Everett catlin




--
 
QRP -  EFFICIENCY AND SKILL, NOT POWER. 
 
I'm British by birth but American by CHOICE!

Jesus came to pay a debt He didn't owe because we owe a debt we cannot pay...

The Lord bless you and keep you
The Lord make His face shine upon you, and be gracious unto you
The Lord lift up his contenance upon you and give you peace.

God Bless from Wayne Dillon - NQ0RP

Joshua 24:14-15
2 Cor 5:17
1 Jn 2:17
 
Membership Chairman - 4SQRP Group
4SQRP 40m NCS
4SQRP #95
FISTS 17184
FPQRP #342 (Flying Pigs QRP Club)
G-QRP-11504
NAQCC # 0759
QRP-ARCI #11505
SKCC #1155T
SOC #848
30MDG#1176
NEQRP #693
GORC #192
DMC (Digital Modes Club) # 06686
Zombie# 1186


Re: End Fed Wire (Was NorCal Doublet)

Wayne Dillon
 

Just to add my $0.02 worth.
I needed a wire to operate 80m so I went with a 124' 6" length fed via a 9:1 unun, works a treat on 80, loads on 160 as well, (as well as all the other bands up to 6m). Starts off at around 10' agl (unun is in the attic) with the far end at around 30'. The unun is at one end of the house, the shack at the other so coax from ASTU to unun is around 80'. Gets ny 5 watts from SE Kansas to NJ. Works for me. My other "go to" antennas are a 66' wire +33' counterpoise and a W3EDP fed with a 4:1 BalUn.
Just a few more ideas to keep the pot boiling.
Blessings all
Wayne - NQ0RP

--
 
QRP -  EFFICIENCY AND SKILL, NOT POWER. 
 
I'm British by birth but American by CHOICE!

Jesus came to pay a debt He didn't owe because we owe a debt we cannot pay...

The Lord bless you and keep you
The Lord make His face shine upon you, and be gracious unto you
The Lord lift up his contenance upon you and give you peace.

God Bless from Wayne Dillon - NQ0RP

Joshua 24:14-15
2 Cor 5:17
1 Jn 2:17
 
Membership Chairman - 4SQRP Group
4SQRP 40m NCS
4SQRP #95
FISTS 17184
FPQRP #342 (Flying Pigs QRP Club)
G-QRP-11504
NAQCC # 0759
QRP-ARCI #11505
SKCC #1155T
SOC #848
30MDG#1176
NEQRP #693
GORC #192
DMC (Digital Modes Club) # 06686
Zombie# 1186


Re: BJ question

Paul Ross <deadgoose@...>
 

As to the markings on the tuning knob..

I did a calibration chart, which I put inside the lid.

Also, I took a small artist's brush and some Testor yellow model paint -- painted a small stripe along the rim of the knob in the area from 7030 to 7122.

Then, after paint was dry, did the crystal thing to spot my crystals, making a small line on the yellow painted part for 7030, 7040, 7055, and 7112.

You can have it both ways...

I am now in the process of finishing the largest HH box to hold the radio, tuner, etc. A small 3/8" square piece of box wood from Michaels glued on the bottom of the large box does the trick. I'll use some bubble wrap to keep things from moving around, for the moment.

I have a QRP Kits BLT tuner, 3000 mAh lithium ion pack, some small headphones, and some wire for an antenna/ground.

Also reading "The Code in Rebecca" by Ken Follett -- a good read on clandestine radio ops.

/paul W3FIS


Re: End Fed Wire (Was NorCal Doublet)

wa2cky
 

Fantastic information! The links are a very nice information resource.  I'm going outside this afternoon and spend some quality time making a map of my side and back lot and start to figure out how much room, etc I have.  

73
Bob Groh, WA2CKY
Blue Springs, MO.


FS: Elecraft K2 QRP Transceiver

Darryl J Kelly
 

FS: Elecraft K2 QRP Transceiver, with KSB2 SSB, K160RX, KAF2, KAT2, and KIO2 upgrades, manual. Serial number 0607 but has been to Don Wilhelm twice, first for all Elecraft available upgrades and secondly for antenna tuner install and change mic connection to Elecraft. Radio is near mint, 9.9/10, non smoker, haven't taken pictures, will make those available later. Asking $850 shipped and insured CONUS. Thought I would list here first.
Darryl, KK5IB
kk5ib01@...
870 761 1891



End Fed Wire (Was NorCal Doublet)

Tim N9PUZ
 

I saw mention of an end fed wire earlier in the discussion. This type of antenna is my 'go to' antenna for portable operation. Whether you want to roll your own or buy one ready made the following is a good site with instructions.

<http://www.earchi.org/92011endfedfiles/Endfed6_40.pdf>

The Emergency Amateur Radio Club, located in Hawaii, builds and sells these to fund their activities but the above link to the instructions is offered as a free download. If you'd like to build your own all of the needed parts are listed.

The instructions say you can go without a counterpoise as long as you use at least 16-20 feet of coax between your tuner and the 9:1 unun. I find that works fine but tuning on 40 Meters is a little touchy. The tuning seems much easier if I attach an extra piece of counterpoise wire that's only about 2 ft long to the provided connection. I am not an antenna modeler, I just know that in my case it makes it easier to tune.

If you substitute a 70ft wire for the antenna, it tunes 80 Meters nicely but isn't as nice of a portable antenna which is my main use. Other wire lengths that should work are found here:

<http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/randomWire/>

I use this antenna with my Elecraft KX-1 and my Xiegu X108G 20W SSB rig. I usually support the far end of the wire with a 28-foot long Jackite wind sock pole and slope it down to the UNUN which seems to work best if you keep it a couple of feet off the ground.

Tim N9PUZ


Re: BJ question

David Wilcox
 

Sorry about the knob error.  I hadn't noticed that the switch knob was too high.  It works as is and the chicken knob is easy to grab with my fumble fingers.  Also, I will leave the atten pot as is.  This radio is a hoot.  Can't wait to take it to our local radio club to see the eyes roll just like my wife.  I did take the club pres to FDIM last year and now he is eager to go this year, so am seeing some converts.  Thanks to 4SQRP and all the builders who have added to the knowledge base.

Dave K8WPE

On Feb 2, 2017, at 10:48 PM, Brian Ford kf4tap@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:

 

.???, okay I just happy to have knobs to chose from. I don't care if the say GE and have tempature ranges. 


Keith 
Kf4tap


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Thursday, February 2, 2017, 21:44, David Martin davemrtn@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:

 

Maybe that explains why the tuning pot is wired backwards and requires pcb mods to make it right ??  Just my opinion too.  But I did mod my tuning pot so '10' on the knob is the higher freq and '1' is the lower freq.


David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. -----------------------------------------
On 2/2/2017 20:38, n5ib@... [4sqrp] wrote:
 

It wasn't the tuning pot that might need trimming, it is the rotary switch.
The tuning pot has to be elevated off the PCB a bit so that there is enough shaft for the knob to grab.

regarding the ATTEN control - that was an executive decision, at least in my prototype. CW rotation = more signal, just like the VOLUME control.  When I first showed the proto I had it wired so that full CCW was minimum attenuation, and the folks who were playing with it remarked that it worked backwards - hi - so I turned it around and left the labeling as is.  Tried to tell them is was designed for the Southern Hemisphere... but that dog wouldn't hunt..

N5IB
.



---In 4sqrp@..., wrote :

Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE


Re: BJ question

keith ford
 

.???, okay I just happy to have knobs to chose from. I don't care if the say GE and have tempature ranges. 

Keith 

On Thursday, February 2, 2017, 21:44, David Martin davemrtn@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:

 

Maybe that explains why the tuning pot is wired backwards and requires pcb mods to make it right ??  Just my opinion too.  But I did mod my tuning pot so '10' on the knob is the higher freq and '1' is the lower freq.


David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. -----------------------------------------
On 2/2/2017 20:38, n5ib@... [4sqrp] wrote:
 

It wasn't the tuning pot that might need trimming, it is the rotary switch.
The tuning pot has to be elevated off the PCB a bit so that there is enough shaft for the knob to grab.

regarding the ATTEN control - that was an executive decision, at least in my prototype. CW rotation = more signal, just like the VOLUME control.  When I first showed the proto I had it wired so that full CCW was minimum attenuation, and the folks who were playing with it remarked that it worked backwards - hi - so I turned it around and left the labeling as is.  Tried to tell them is was designed for the Southern Hemisphere... but that dog wouldn't hunt..

N5IB
.



---In 4sqrp@..., wrote :

Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE


Re: BJ question

David Martin <davemrtn@...>
 

Maybe that explains why the tuning pot is wired backwards and requires pcb mods to make it right ??  Just my opinion too.  But I did mod my tuning pot so '10' on the knob is the higher freq and '1' is the lower freq.


David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. -----------------------------------------

On 2/2/2017 20:38, n5ib@... [4sqrp] wrote:
 

It wasn't the tuning pot that might need trimming, it is the rotary switch.
The tuning pot has to be elevated off the PCB a bit so that there is enough shaft for the knob to grab.

regarding the ATTEN control - that was an executive decision, at least in my prototype. CW rotation = more signal, just like the VOLUME control.  When I first showed the proto I had it wired so that full CCW was minimum attenuation, and the folks who were playing with it remarked that it worked backwards - hi - so I turned it around and left the labeling as is.  Tried to tell them is was designed for the Southern Hemisphere... but that dog wouldn't hunt..

N5IB
.



---In 4sqrp@..., wrote :

Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE


BJ

Everett Catlin
 

Hi all I am a new member. Saving my pennies for BJ hi hi retired now and money tight. Great group and special Hi to Jim N5Ib.

73
N5MZX
Everett catlin


Re: BJ question

 

* On 2017 02 Feb 18:37 -0600, David Martin davemrtn@... [4sqrp] wrote:

It has been bugging me too when I 'turn up' (Clockwise) the "ATTEN" control
the signal goes up.
I've never even thought about it as it works similarly enough to the
usual RF Gain control on superhets that it seems natural to me.

72, Nate

--

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds. The pessimist fears this is true."

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us


Re: BJ question

Jim, N5IB
 

It wasn't the tuning pot that might need trimming, it is the rotary switch.
The tuning pot has to be elevated off the PCB a bit so that there is enough shaft for the knob to grab.

regarding the ATTEN control - that was an executive decision, at least in my prototype. CW rotation = more signal, just like the VOLUME control.  When I first showed the proto I had it wired so that full CCW was minimum attenuation, and the folks who were playing with it remarked that it worked backwards - hi - so I turned it around and left the labeling as is.  Tried to tell them is was designed for the Southern Hemisphere... but that dog wouldn't hunt..

N5IB
.


---In 4sqrp@..., <djwilcox01@...> wrote :

Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE


Re: BJ question

David Martin <davemrtn@...>
 

I guess we have 2 options.

Cut traces and swap ends on the pot, or put a sticky label on the panel and call it 'Gain', though it really isn't causing any increased gain !!  Unfortunately, the way the CCW lead of the pot was grounded, there is no trace that is easily severed.  Once built the pot would have to be removed so the CCW lead can be bent and disconnected from ground.

You have a good point though.

It has been bugging me too when I 'turn up' (Clockwise) the "ATTEN" control the signal goes up.


David Martin - NA1MH - Mountain Home, Ar. -----------------------------------------

On 2/2/2017 17:01, David Wilcox djwilcox01@... [4sqrp] wrote:
 
Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE

On Feb 2, 2017, at 5:40 PM, CStratton groups@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:

 
Thanks Jim and Larry -

I chose to cut the tabs and through hole leads flush with the bottom of the pot so it would sit lower on the board. I passed small pieces of bare wire up through the pcb holes for the three leads to solder to the remnants of the pot leads. This provided plenty of room for the S38 venier shaft to clear the pot frame.

Chip
AE5KA

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 6:45 PM, Jim Sheldon <w0eb@...> wrote:
I used the normal standoffs, cut about 1/4 inch off the tuning pot shaft (maybe a little more) and inserted a couple washers under each standoff to adjust the height to the point that the vernier shaft would just work and still leave enough height on the other shafts to engage the setscrews on the knobs.

Jim 

On Jan 31, 2017, at 7:44 AM, CStratton <groups@...> wrote:

Hi Jim -

I'm trying the vernier dial mod to my BJ. To get an extra 1/8" of clearance for the shaft, I used 3/4" standoffs instead of the 5/8" standoffs. The work to let the vernier shaft just clear the pot, but now all of the other pot shafts are too short to be engaged by the supplied knobs.

Grinding the vernier shaft down would work, but to get 1/8" it looks like he set screw hole will be compromised.

What did you find on your build?

Thanks,
Chip
AE5KA

On Thu, Jan 5, 2017 at 7:49 PM, 'Jim Sheldon' w0eb@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:
 

I had a 1.5" diameter Philmore vernier dial laying around so I decided to see how difficult it would be to install for tuning the Bayou Jumper which is sort of fast and difficult, but not impossible, to get just right. 
 
First, it was necessary to drill out the hole in the panel for the tuning pot to a diameter of 7/16" to allow for clearance of the shaft coupler on the vernier.  Next, it was necessary to cut the tuning pot shaft down to just over 1/4" long and the bottom of the shaft coupler still bottomed out on the frame of the pot, leaving the base of the vernier mechanism about 1/8" above the panel.  There are two options here, grind down the shaft coupler until the vernier sits flush with the panel and the coupler doesn't bind on the frame of the pot or use 1/8" or so of spacers between the panel mounting standoffs and the panel (easier at assembly time to add the spacers between the main PC board and the bottom of the standoffs).  The mounting holes for the vernier must be carefully laid out and drilled for 2-56 screws and 2 of these are used to mount it to the panel.
 
Before re-assembling the panel/pc board combination, set the shaft on the tuning pot to mid range and the vernier to midrange (#50).  Carefully fit everything into place, tighten all the panel mounting screws and other top side hardware just like you did on the initial assembly.  Next, very carefully tighten the set screw on the vernier's shaft coupler to lock it to the tuning shaft of the pot.  You will only have 180 degrees of rotation rather than the full 270 degrees but this should fall within the 7020 to 7130 range assuming you had done the calibration steps earlier.
 
I used the 1.5" Philmore S38 vernier.  The S50 is a 2" diameter dial and these are also available for somewhere around the same price or just a little more.  The S38 is the ideal one as it fits within all original markings on the Bayou Jumper's panel where the S50 will cover the word Tuning and the top will extend into, if not completely cover the original V shaped pointer at top center. 
 
It's a daunting modification and probably most won't do it, but it does really slow down the tuning and makes it much easier to tune in a CW station and it's now actually possible to also tune in the SSB stations at the high end if they fall within the tuning range.  The radio is quite stable and once tuned to a frequency I didn't observe any drift after a couple minutes of warm up.  Super job by the designers.
 
Jim - W0EB
 
 
It actually looks pretty decent mounted on the radio - helps a lot with ease of tuning in a signal.
 
 
Closer picture of the installed Philmore S38 vernier dial




BJ question

David Wilcox
 

Has there been a change in the tuning pot or knob?  I am glad I didn't cut any of the shaft off because my knob snugs right down on the faceplate, and when I put it flush with the faceplate it becomes more stable in staying on frequency and easier to tune.  At first I had it about 1/16 inch above the faceplate to prevent scratching it but it works better down tighter.  Might put a piece of felt behind it like the knobs of yore.

Another question:  why does the attenuator pot work backwards?  I would think, clockwise = more attenuation.  Less attenuation at the 7:00 o'clock position.  Mine is least at the 5:00 o'clock and max at 7:00 o'clock. May have to fix that on mine.

Has anyone found a way to remove the lettering on the tuning pot? Then I could just use small press on numbers somehow relating to the frequency.  7  .03 .05 1.0 etc.  I think I could do it or if someone was good with Word or some printing program print out a ring that we could place on the knob skirt with dots or something we could make a chart for.

Dave K8WPE

On Feb 2, 2017, at 5:40 PM, CStratton groups@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Jim and Larry -

I chose to cut the tabs and through hole leads flush with the bottom of the pot so it would sit lower on the board. I passed small pieces of bare wire up through the pcb holes for the three leads to solder to the remnants of the pot leads. This provided plenty of room for the S38 venier shaft to clear the pot frame.

Chip
AE5KA

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 6:45 PM, Jim Sheldon <w0eb@...> wrote:
I used the normal standoffs, cut about 1/4 inch off the tuning pot shaft (maybe a little more) and inserted a couple washers under each standoff to adjust the height to the point that the vernier shaft would just work and still leave enough height on the other shafts to engage the setscrews on the knobs.

Jim 

On Jan 31, 2017, at 7:44 AM, CStratton <groups@...> wrote:

Hi Jim -

I'm trying the vernier dial mod to my BJ. To get an extra 1/8" of clearance for the shaft, I used 3/4" standoffs instead of the 5/8" standoffs. The work to let the vernier shaft just clear the pot, but now all of the other pot shafts are too short to be engaged by the supplied knobs.

Grinding the vernier shaft down would work, but to get 1/8" it looks like he set screw hole will be compromised.

What did you find on your build?

Thanks,
Chip
AE5KA

On Thu, Jan 5, 2017 at 7:49 PM, 'Jim Sheldon' w0eb@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:
 

I had a 1.5" diameter Philmore vernier dial laying around so I decided to see how difficult it would be to install for tuning the Bayou Jumper which is sort of fast and difficult, but not impossible, to get just right. 
 
First, it was necessary to drill out the hole in the panel for the tuning pot to a diameter of 7/16" to allow for clearance of the shaft coupler on the vernier.  Next, it was necessary to cut the tuning pot shaft down to just over 1/4" long and the bottom of the shaft coupler still bottomed out on the frame of the pot, leaving the base of the vernier mechanism about 1/8" above the panel.  There are two options here, grind down the shaft coupler until the vernier sits flush with the panel and the coupler doesn't bind on the frame of the pot or use 1/8" or so of spacers between the panel mounting standoffs and the panel (easier at assembly time to add the spacers between the main PC board and the bottom of the standoffs).  The mounting holes for the vernier must be carefully laid out and drilled for 2-56 screws and 2 of these are used to mount it to the panel.
 
Before re-assembling the panel/pc board combination, set the shaft on the tuning pot to mid range and the vernier to midrange (#50).  Carefully fit everything into place, tighten all the panel mounting screws and other top side hardware just like you did on the initial assembly.  Next, very carefully tighten the set screw on the vernier's shaft coupler to lock it to the tuning shaft of the pot.  You will only have 180 degrees of rotation rather than the full 270 degrees but this should fall within the 7020 to 7130 range assuming you had done the calibration steps earlier.
 
I used the 1.5" Philmore S38 vernier.  The S50 is a 2" diameter dial and these are also available for somewhere around the same price or just a little more.  The S38 is the ideal one as it fits within all original markings on the Bayou Jumper's panel where the S50 will cover the word Tuning and the top will extend into, if not completely cover the original V shaped pointer at top center. 
 
It's a daunting modification and probably most won't do it, but it does really slow down the tuning and makes it much easier to tune in a CW station and it's now actually possible to also tune in the SSB stations at the high end if they fall within the tuning range.  The radio is quite stable and once tuned to a frequency I didn't observe any drift after a couple minutes of warm up.  Super job by the designers.
 
Jim - W0EB
 
 
It actually looks pretty decent mounted on the radio - helps a lot with ease of tuning in a signal.
 
 
Closer picture of the installed Philmore S38 vernier dial




Re: Another mod to the Bayou Jumper

random.path
 

Thanks Jim and Larry -

I chose to cut the tabs and through hole leads flush with the bottom of the pot so it would sit lower on the board. I passed small pieces of bare wire up through the pcb holes for the three leads to solder to the remnants of the pot leads. This provided plenty of room for the S38 venier shaft to clear the pot frame.

Chip
AE5KA

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 6:45 PM, Jim Sheldon <w0eb@...> wrote:
I used the normal standoffs, cut about 1/4 inch off the tuning pot shaft (maybe a little more) and inserted a couple washers under each standoff to adjust the height to the point that the vernier shaft would just work and still leave enough height on the other shafts to engage the setscrews on the knobs.

Jim 

On Jan 31, 2017, at 7:44 AM, CStratton <groups@...> wrote:

Hi Jim -

I'm trying the vernier dial mod to my BJ. To get an extra 1/8" of clearance for the shaft, I used 3/4" standoffs instead of the 5/8" standoffs. The work to let the vernier shaft just clear the pot, but now all of the other pot shafts are too short to be engaged by the supplied knobs.

Grinding the vernier shaft down would work, but to get 1/8" it looks like he set screw hole will be compromised.

What did you find on your build?

Thanks,
Chip
AE5KA

On Thu, Jan 5, 2017 at 7:49 PM, 'Jim Sheldon' w0eb@... [4sqrp] <4sqrp@...> wrote:
 

I had a 1.5" diameter Philmore vernier dial laying around so I decided to see how difficult it would be to install for tuning the Bayou Jumper which is sort of fast and difficult, but not impossible, to get just right. 
 
First, it was necessary to drill out the hole in the panel for the tuning pot to a diameter of 7/16" to allow for clearance of the shaft coupler on the vernier.  Next, it was necessary to cut the tuning pot shaft down to just over 1/4" long and the bottom of the shaft coupler still bottomed out on the frame of the pot, leaving the base of the vernier mechanism about 1/8" above the panel.  There are two options here, grind down the shaft coupler until the vernier sits flush with the panel and the coupler doesn't bind on the frame of the pot or use 1/8" or so of spacers between the panel mounting standoffs and the panel (easier at assembly time to add the spacers between the main PC board and the bottom of the standoffs).  The mounting holes for the vernier must be carefully laid out and drilled for 2-56 screws and 2 of these are used to mount it to the panel.
 
Before re-assembling the panel/pc board combination, set the shaft on the tuning pot to mid range and the vernier to midrange (#50).  Carefully fit everything into place, tighten all the panel mounting screws and other top side hardware just like you did on the initial assembly.  Next, very carefully tighten the set screw on the vernier's shaft coupler to lock it to the tuning shaft of the pot.  You will only have 180 degrees of rotation rather than the full 270 degrees but this should fall within the 7020 to 7130 range assuming you had done the calibration steps earlier.
 
I used the 1.5" Philmore S38 vernier.  The S50 is a 2" diameter dial and these are also available for somewhere around the same price or just a little more.  The S38 is the ideal one as it fits within all original markings on the Bayou Jumper's panel where the S50 will cover the word Tuning and the top will extend into, if not completely cover the original V shaped pointer at top center. 
 
It's a daunting modification and probably most won't do it, but it does really slow down the tuning and makes it much easier to tune in a CW station and it's now actually possible to also tune in the SSB stations at the high end if they fall within the tuning range.  The radio is quite stable and once tuned to a frequency I didn't observe any drift after a couple minutes of warm up.  Super job by the designers.
 
Jim - W0EB
 
 
It actually looks pretty decent mounted on the radio - helps a lot with ease of tuning in a signal.
 
 
Closer picture of the installed Philmore S38 vernier dial