Just for info, my radio (which works) has following readings

On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 09:59 AM, n5ib_2 wrote:

1) battery voltage, at the battery +terminal, or at the top of R1 = 8.6VDC

2) voltage at the junction of R1 and R2, or at the + lead of C3 = 7.9

3) voltage at the top of the regen pot, or + terminal of C13 = 7.85

4) voltage at the junction of R3 and the regen pot (other end of the pot) = 3.64
... also check that this voltage decreases as you swing the regen pot through its range towards full clockwise
... then put the pot back to full counterclockwise for the rest of these checks

5) voltage at the R3 / R10 junction, or the base of Q1 = 0.53

Curt KB5JO

What about removing R47 and the first hundred kits?

Hi Herb,

I'm presuming you've fixed the earlier problem of low voltage on the Q3 collector?

Before replacing any more parts, do a little voltage detective work for us. This will give some clues as to whether the problem is Q1 itself, or its biasing circuit. With the regen pot fully counterclockwise (minimum resistance, maximum regeneration) measure the following with respect to ground (record the full resolution of your voltmeter):

1) battery voltage, at the battery +terminal, or at the top of R1

2) voltage at the junction of R1 and R2, or at the + lead of C3

3) voltage at the top of the regen pot, or + terminal of C13

4) voltage at the junction of R3 and the regen pot (other end of the pot)
... also check that this voltage decreases as you swing the regen pot through its range towards full clockwise
... then put the pot back to full counterclockwise for the rest of these checks

5) voltage at the R3 / R10 junction, or the base of Q1

The too high voltage at Q1 collector could be due to a short to ground at the base of Q1, or it couod be due to an open circuit in its base bias circuit. The above measurements ought to narrow it down.

Now, if you have time... temporarily unsolder and lift the base lead of Q1 and repeat the measurements above. For (5) above probe the PCB pad for the base of Q1 , not the base lead itself.

Neither a backwards nor forwards D2 and/or D3 would short Q1-B to ground unless *both* diodes were shorted.

Jim, N5IB

PERIODIC REMINDER

The 4SQRP Mailing List exists for several purposes:

• To encourage the discussion of QRP activities and techniques, especially those that relate to 4SQRP events.
• To provide support for 4SQRP kits and products on the main list or in one of the specialty subgroups.
• To share your QRP operating experiences and techniques.

The 4SQRP Mailing list IS NOT for the purpose of supporting the products of other companies or clubs. If you have a question about their products or if you have a service issue with another vendor, this is not the place to discuss it. Contact them directly. We're sorry you had a problem but we aren't here to help everyone in the world.

If you choose to ignore our simple rules don't be surprised if you receive a note from a moderator, get yourself placed on permanent moderation, or get banned from the list. We are all reasonable people and are not vindictive. However, we can be provoked. The Moderators are volunteers. We get no pay, no free kits, etc.

One last comment; Sending a message outside the guidelines but marking it as "off topic" is sure fire way to get placed on moderation as you have clearly demonstrated that you don't believe the rules apply to you.

Just thinking out loud here, but what if both D2 and D3 were installed backwards?  I don't have an Ozark Patrol.  I'm just relying on Curt's observations.

72,
John, AA0VE

Herb

No voltage on Q1 base implies short to ground in that circuit.  Absent an internal B-E short, the voltage should be at least 1/2V across D2 and D3.  Since you have replaced that transistor, the other possibles would be BOTH D2 & D3 shorted ( not likely ), R10 (not likely), or C4 ( possible but not likely ).

Did you ever try headphones? 

Am at a loss. Sorry.

Curt

Hi Herb,
The fact that it squeals seems to indicate the audio section is at least working. Not quite sure why voltages around Q1 are not right, so for some reason the problem seems to gravitate there. For Q1, I tried replacing it with a 2N2222, and that worked fine for me, but still your incorrect voltages around Q1 gets me wondering.
... Jerry Wysocki, KC9JXE

When they were available, how much were Hilltopper kits?

Jim
WW9H

Herb,

Any progress getting the radio to function?

Curt KB5JO

I have complete and working QCXs by QRP Labs that I would be interested in trading. 20 and 40 meters. Both fully functional, aligned and running.
Both are in 3D printed cases. 20 meter rig is about 3 watts out and the 40 meter rig 5 watts out. I missed the Hilltopper kits and would like to try them. Will trade for completed and working rigs or unbuilt kits. Pics attached.
Jess AE0CW

I read that the early 75A kits needed a separate circuit board due to receiver performance, with inadequate AGC range and objectionable distortion. 

I bought 5 of these kits to build and also to give away to younger hams. 

When do these mods apply to the kits, is it in my serial range?

Thanks!

Hi Jerry, I know that this post is from last month, but I just finished up my Nouveau 75 and would love to test it on air, up for a sked?

 

73 Bruce W1UJR

How did you determine the frequency offset?

Johnny, this is Tim, K0EMP

Number is 316-200-6037.

Would you please contact me?

Tim

The "Rodeo" thread has been deleted and the original poster has been put on fully moderated status. I don't like doing that but if any subscriber isn't clever enough to follow our simple list rules that's what we promised would happen. I'm sorry that there were so many messages in the thread before I killed it off but I work for a living.

Tim N9PUZ
4SQRP Volunteer List Moderator