Gm Charles 

Terry used to have a link to a dummy load antenna, but the one I found is Broken?

Maybe someone else has a better link?

73

Johnny 

On Sun, Mar 24, 2019 at 10:54 AM Charles Wells <odu1993@...> wrote:

I was looking at the Ozarkcon Dummy Load Special Antenna with an eye toward assembling same.  I'm slightly confused about some details.

My interpretation is that one end of the zip cord is soldered together so that the total length of the radiator is 40 ft.  One end is then connected to the BNC ground and the other to the resistive load.  Is this interpretation correct?

Thanks for your help.

Chas

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Check out the 4SQRP website at 4sqrp.com

I was looking at the Ozarkcon Dummy Load Special Antenna with an eye toward assembling same.  I'm slightly confused about some details.

My interpretation is that one end of the zip cord is soldered together so that the total length of the radiator is 40 ft.  One end is then connected to the BNC ground and the other to the resistive load.  Is this interpretation correct?

Thanks for your help.

Chas

Folks-

Here are several easy mods to improve Hilltopper performance. They address audio levels and quality.

1)   'Loud sidetone':

The value of R8  (now 22k) can be increased to 47K to 100K.  (This change has been posted before, but it's worth including in this summary )

2) 'Low audio'  

The values of R5 (150K) and C22 (470 pF) may be changed to 330K and 220 pF respectively.  This yields a gain increase of 6 dB without affecting that stage's rolloff characteristic.

These two components are in 'tight quarters'- between U3 and the pushbutton switch.  Cutting one or both component leads and tacking the new components on the underside of the board makes the change much easier. 

 But wait- there's more!......

As some of you have noted, there's a 'screech' on loud CW signals- it necessitates riding the gain control. I evaluated samples of a more robust op-amp-  the NJM4556AD.

3) Replacing the NE5532P with that new device eliminates the screech. You'll hear some distortion when limiting occurs, but it's much less objectionable than the NE5532's rude noises. Its 'limiting' threshold is also about 6 dB higher than the present device.  The net result of this change, combined with 2) above,  is 6 dB more audio without the rudities (that's a word!).

Note that if you increase the gain without replacing the IC, you'll find yourself riding the gain control more often

------------------------------------------------

Here's the deal:

If you'd like parts for fixes 1) and 2), simply send me your address and I'll drop them in the mail to you.

I can provide the NJM4556AD as well, but I'd need to charge for it at my cost.  Most of that is postage- nearly $4 for a 'non-flat' mailing these days.   This part is also readily available through Digikey and Mouser.

73- Dave Benson, K1SWL

email: davek1swl at gmail.com

What is FS?

On Sat, Mar 23, 2019, 11:52 AM George H. Gates via Groups.Io <w2bpi1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Fill up your junk box. Must clean out shack. $20.00 plus shipping. 72  George/W2BPI

Fill up your junk box. Must clean out shack. $20.00 plus shipping. 72  George/W2BPI

I purchased a set of JBL EnduranceRun earbuds. In several days of tuning around I have found that although the receive audio will sometimes clip on strong signals with the GAIN control wide open, I have yet to experience the terrible screeching noise I experienced with the computer type headphones... AND the receiver audio level is quite acceptable as-is. I have usually kept the GAIN control wide open when tuning the band but ride it just in case I approach a strong signal, at which time I reduce the audio a bit and tune by. That technique and the new earbuds seem to have overcome the screeching noise that plagued me on all other types of headsets. By the way, the JBL earbuds are based upon strong magnets. Not sure if that is why they seem to be working so well for me. In any case I am completely happy now and can commence to building my remaining Hilltopper 20.

Oh, and by the way, I made my first contact tonight on the HT 40. It was approximately 935 miles with a station up in Maine. I got a 559 at first, then he upped it to 579 as the band was changing a bit. Had a nice little chat with him until my single paddle suddenly went crazy and I had to sign. I apparently hadn't firmly cinched down all of the adjustments and one of them suddenly got very sloppy, totally messing up my sending. I fixed that and am now looking for contact number two on my HT 40. I have been CQ'ing a lot on or around 7123.0 khz but have heard zero thus far. I will keep at it. When I can remember, I am spotting myself on QRPSpots. I wish more operators would use that excellent tool.

Thanks to all of those that offered assistance and suggestions with my HT 40. I am grateful and have learned  a lot. I expect that my un-built HT 20 will go together much quicker and smoother. Now if we could see a HT 80 and HT 30, I'd be in ham heaven...Hint, hint..  See you on the air.

Best regards,

Gary, K7EK

Radcliff, KY (EM77at)

They're currently out of stock, but I believe a Wiha 30517 is a better deal with a nice handle on it.

Jim, W0EB

On Mar 19, 2019, at 3:00 PM, WA0ITP <wa0itp@...> wrote:

While perusing the Horizon Hobby web page to fuel one of my other hobbies, I ran across the wrench below.  It is being sold as a RC Transmitter switch wrench, buit is also works perfectly for the 1/8" Jacks we have on receivers, keyers, amps, xcvrs,etc..  These are the little round nuts that seem impossible to tighten. The bars on the wrench fit into the slots on the nuts.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/spektrum-radio-switch-bezel-wrench--orange-p-spma1310  

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-- 
72 WAØITP
I love this radio stuff.
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com