Date   

What is a QRP Ozark 17 transceiver?

 

I have been trying to google and otherwise track down information on the Ozark 17 meter QRP transceiver with no luck.  I am seeking a copy of the manual, schematic, and other info, including assembly instructions if it was a kit.

Can anyone help me in my search?

EuGene, KA5NLY


Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

Paul Goemans
 

Well,
Interesting concept. That was 50 years ago. A modern temperature controlled solder pencil will just crank more power into the heating element to maintain temperature. So you won’t gain any element life, and in fact be shortening its life!

WA9PWP



Sent from Pauls iPhone

On Nov 22, 2020, at 10:03 PM, Jerome Wysocki <jeromewysocki48@gmail.com> wrote:

I remember an old trick reported in Popular Electronics in the earlier 1960s. The author would wrap some 14 gauge bare copper wire closely and tightly around the outside porcelain part of of the heating element of a soldering iron. He claimed the copper acted like a heat sink, to remove excess heat from the outside shell of the heating element, claiming that this will drastically increase the life of the heating element. Now that I am starting to do a lot more soldering than I have in recent years, I think I'll try it. It can't hurt.





Re: Cyclone 40 PTO Coil Form

Clark WU4B
 


Ron, 

Thanks for the two posts.  Woke up this morning and wondered if I had the BOM as a separate document as it is not in my copy of the manual.  Funny how I think better after a good night’s sleep!

On Mon, Nov 23, 2020 at 12:23 AM AG1P Ron <ag1p@...> wrote:

Here’s what is in the BOM - 0.5” OD x 0.75” 10-32 Nylon Spacer

 

72 - Ron - AG1P

4SQRP Volunteer Webmaster

 

From: main@4SQRP.groups.io [mailto:main@4SQRP.groups.io] On Behalf Of John
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2020 4:15 PM
To: main@4sqrp.groups.io
Subject: Re: [4SQRP] Cyclone 40 PTO Coil Form

 

Looks very much like a 1/4" nylon standoff

 

John K5MO

 

On Sun, Nov 22, 2020 at 5:40 PM Thomas Martin <tem494@...> wrote:

You may want to check “thingverse” website 3D printing site look under Ham Radio someone may have one listed many talented people there.

 

Tom

On Sunday, November 22, 2020, Clark WU4B <clark.macaulay@...> wrote:

I'm building s/n 201 and do not have the coil form.  What is the diameter as I will have to fabricate one here.

Thanks for all your help
--
72,

Clark WU4B

--

--
72,

Clark WU4B


Re: Cyclone 40 PTO Coil Form

AG1P Ron
 

Here’s what is in the BOM - 0.5” OD x 0.75” 10-32 Nylon Spacer

 

72 - Ron - AG1P

4SQRP Volunteer Webmaster

 

From: main@4SQRP.groups.io [mailto:main@4SQRP.groups.io] On Behalf Of John
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2020 4:15 PM
To: main@4sqrp.groups.io
Subject: Re: [4SQRP] Cyclone 40 PTO Coil Form

 

Looks very much like a 1/4" nylon standoff

 

John K5MO

 

On Sun, Nov 22, 2020 at 5:40 PM Thomas Martin <tem494@...> wrote:

You may want to check “thingverse” website 3D printing site look under Ham Radio someone may have one listed many talented people there.

 

Tom

On Sunday, November 22, 2020, Clark WU4B <clark.macaulay@...> wrote:

I'm building s/n 201 and do not have the coil form.  What is the diameter as I will have to fabricate one here.

Thanks for all your help
--
72,

Clark WU4B


Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

Jerome Wysocki
 

I remember an old trick reported in Popular Electronics in the earlier 1960s. The author would wrap some 14 gauge bare copper wire closely and tightly around the outside porcelain part of of the heating element of a soldering iron. He claimed the copper acted like a heat sink, to remove excess heat from the outside shell of the heating element, claiming that this will drastically increase the life of the heating element. Now that I am starting to do a lot more soldering than I have in recent years, I think I'll try it. It can't hurt.


Re: Cyclone 40 PTO Coil Form

Curt
 

If you have any doubts email the designer NM0S for help.

I treasure my own Cyclone, best simple rig in my experience.

73 curt


Re: Cyclone 40 PTO Coil Form

John
 

Looks very much like a 1/4" nylon standoff

John K5MO


On Sun, Nov 22, 2020 at 5:40 PM Thomas Martin <tem494@...> wrote:
You may want to check “thingverse” website 3D printing site look under Ham Radio someone may have one listed many talented people there.

Tom

On Sunday, November 22, 2020, Clark WU4B <clark.macaulay@...> wrote:
I'm building s/n 201 and do not have the coil form.  What is the diameter as I will have to fabricate one here.

Thanks for all your help
--
72,

Clark WU4B


Re: Cyclone 40 PTO Coil Form

Thomas Martin
 

You may want to check “thingverse” website 3D printing site look under Ham Radio someone may have one listed many talented people there.

Tom


On Sunday, November 22, 2020, Clark WU4B <clark.macaulay@...> wrote:
I'm building s/n 201 and do not have the coil form.  What is the diameter as I will have to fabricate one here.

Thanks for all your help
--
72,

Clark WU4B


Cyclone 40 PTO Coil Form

Clark WU4B
 

I'm building s/n 201 and do not have the coil form.  What is the diameter as I will have to fabricate one here.

Thanks for all your help
--
72,

Clark WU4B


Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

Roy Parker
 

Actually it's more of a problem trying to use too cool of a temp. Strange, but it will heat the circuit more while trying to 'melt solder'.


On Sun, Nov 22, 2020 at 12:23 PM, WB9YZU via groups.io
<wb9yzu@...> wrote:
Woody, soldering is part art and part science, but like painting a car, the result is a matter of how well you prep the surface, keep your tools in good working order, and use the right tools. Lead heatsinks used to be a thing, especially when people used 15-25W single temp pencils for soldering, but most of what Hams run into now won't need them. Along with a Soldering Iron, a Tweezers,  small Hemostats, Dental Pick, and a set of small good quality dikes will be of help.

Once the board is prepped - I use IPA (Alcohol NOT the Beer!), 70-91% will work with the preference towards 91%. This can be obtained at your drug store.
Make sure your solder is either new or clean. I have some really old solder, and the surface oxidates. Wipe it with a rag with a bit of IPA on it to remove the oxidation or it will end up in your work. Speaking of solder, use the right size and type for what you want to do. Pb or Pb Free, and I prefer larger solder for PL259, and smaller solder for repairs and kits. I prefer a 60/40 Rosin core small diameter solder. If you want to use extra flux (and it is sometimes desirable) there are a number of brands of solder flux out there - they even make it in pen form. I'm still using the tin of Kesler stuff from 20 years ago (I should probably ditch it ;) ).

Iron choice - Don't even bother to buy a 25W iron. Seriously, just say No; don't even take one it someone gives it to you Free!
Because of the length of time it will take to heat, melt, an flow the solder, you will damage components and boards.
Like Paul mentioned, a 40-50W Pencil with adjustable temp will do most all kit building and rework. 
The Tip type depends on what you are using it for. Sometimes you may need a sharp tip, others a blade, and most generally a slightly blunt tip.
I can't stress enough the importance of keeping the tip clean and tinned! Whether you use the copper coil method or the damp sponge method is a matter of preference.

The actual soldering is the art, and it depends on what you are soldering.
For normal through board components, you apply the heat to the circuit pad, add solder to the pad until it flows onto the component, then add additional solder to create the fillet. If you have a dual sided board, you want to make sure it flows though to the other side. Don't dilly dally though, when the job is done, remove the heat and let it cool naturally. A 60/40 Pb solder fillet will be shinny when done right, Pb Free will look like a cold solder connection and there isn't any thing for it.

Connectors generally require more heat, and it depend what you are soldering. For example, for a PL259 male, a 125W Weller gun is often the appropriate tool, though if it is cold where I am working, I'm not apposed to pulling out the 250W Weller :) Again, timing is everything. Too long and you risk melting the insulation or the connector.

Soldering SMD is a horse of a different color.
It generally involves  1st tinning the pad with solder, placing the component on the pad, and reflowing the solder (ether with a pencil or a hot air tool) onto the component.
Your success with this method depends on prepwork and the size of the component. 
A Hot Air setup is useful for removing components and reinstalling them. They also work nicely to do heatshrink tubing :) Cheap ones are about $40 on Amazon.
This is a link to working with SMD components by KC9ON https://kc9on.com/ham-radio/smd/

Clean up - You want to board to look nice :)
I use IPA and a Q-Tip, for spot repairs. IPA and a tooth brush for larger items tends to get them clean.
FluxOff is a good product to use as a board wash.

Tons of informational material in YouTube videos!

GL!!

--
, Ron WB9YZU


Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

WB9YZU
 

Woody, soldering is part art and part science, but like painting a car, the result is a matter of how well you prep the surface, keep your tools in good working order, and use the right tools. Lead heatsinks used to be a thing, especially when people used 15-25W single temp pencils for soldering, but most of what Hams run into now won't need them. Along with a Soldering Iron, a Tweezers,  small Hemostats, Dental Pick, and a set of small good quality dikes will be of help.

Once the board is prepped - I use IPA (Alcohol NOT the Beer!), 70-91% will work with the preference towards 91%. This can be obtained at your drug store.
Make sure your solder is either new or clean. I have some really old solder, and the surface oxidates. Wipe it with a rag with a bit of IPA on it to remove the oxidation or it will end up in your work. Speaking of solder, use the right size and type for what you want to do. Pb or Pb Free, and I prefer larger solder for PL259, and smaller solder for repairs and kits. I prefer a 60/40 Rosin core small diameter solder. If you want to use extra flux (and it is sometimes desirable) there are a number of brands of solder flux out there - they even make it in pen form. I'm still using the tin of Kesler stuff from 20 years ago (I should probably ditch it ;) ).

Iron choice - Don't even bother to buy a 25W iron. Seriously, just say No; don't even take one it someone gives it to you Free!
Because of the length of time it will take to heat, melt, an flow the solder, you will damage components and boards.
Like Paul mentioned, a 40-50W Pencil with adjustable temp will do most all kit building and rework. 
The Tip type depends on what you are using it for. Sometimes you may need a sharp tip, others a blade, and most generally a slightly blunt tip.
I can't stress enough the importance of keeping the tip clean and tinned! Whether you use the copper coil method or the damp sponge method is a matter of preference.

The actual soldering is the art, and it depends on what you are soldering.
For normal through board components, you apply the heat to the circuit pad, add solder to the pad until it flows onto the component, then add additional solder to create the fillet. If you have a dual sided board, you want to make sure it flows though to the other side. Don't dilly dally though, when the job is done, remove the heat and let it cool naturally. A 60/40 Pb solder fillet will be shinny when done right, Pb Free will look like a cold solder connection and there isn't any thing for it.

Connectors generally require more heat, and it depend what you are soldering. For example, for a PL259 male, a 125W Weller gun is often the appropriate tool, though if it is cold where I am working, I'm not apposed to pulling out the 250W Weller :) Again, timing is everything. Too long and you risk melting the insulation or the connector.

Soldering SMD is a horse of a different color.
It generally involves  1st tinning the pad with solder, placing the component on the pad, and reflowing the solder (ether with a pencil or a hot air tool) onto the component.
Your success with this method depends on prepwork and the size of the component. 
A Hot Air setup is useful for removing components and reinstalling them. They also work nicely to do heatshrink tubing :) Cheap ones are about $40 on Amazon.
This is a link to working with SMD components by KC9ON https://kc9on.com/ham-radio/smd/

Clean up - You want to board to look nice :)
I use IPA and a Q-Tip, for spot repairs. IPA and a tooth brush for larger items tends to get them clean.
FluxOff is a good product to use as a board wash.

Tons of informational material in YouTube videos!

GL!!

--
, Ron WB9YZU


Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

Cliff Fox (KU4GW)
 

Hi Woody,
                  My el cheapo made in China soldering station I picked up at the 2013 Dayton Hamvention doesn't have a temperature scale, only one with colors so I'm not exactly sure of the temperature, but I run it turned clockwise to around what would be 5 pm on a clock face, maxium is at 6 pm. I also prefer the old 60/40 rosin core lead solder and there's always plenty to be had every year at the Shelby, NC Hamfest, well, up until this year because of it being cancelled due to covid-19. Just a tip for the method I use when soldering discrete non-SMT components I clamp a pair of hemostats on the component lead up close to where the lead enters into the component for a heat sink to prevent me accidentally damaging the component by overheating it with my soldering iron. I can barely see well enough anymore for SMT components due to sugar diabetes blurring my vision. I have overheated and lifted a foil trace from a PC board whentrying to desolder using the woven copper wick and sound up having to make a jumper from a tiny piece of hookup wire. After that I bought one of the desoldering irons that has the red rubber squeeze bulb alongside of the iron at a local Radio Shack store and it sorks fantastic! If you don't want to spend a lot on a rework station I highly recommend one of those desoldering irons. You can still find them on both eBay and Amazon. I hope you and yours have a very "Happy Thanksgiving" & a very " Merry Christmas" as well! Let's hope & pray we have a good 2021, beating 2020 sure won't be hard to do! 

Very 72/73 de Cliff 
KU4GW
Proud Member of the ARRL A-1 Operator Club (*Elected to Full Membership April 11, 2012
 
"It's not the class of license that the Amateur holds that matters, it's the class of the Amateur who holds the license!" 


Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

Woody Hester
 

THANKS! to all for great info. in response to my soldering questions.  Here and off list.  ALL very helpful.  I am now waaay more knowledgable and inspired.  I'm grateful to all of you for your time and help! Headed down to the bench right now to mount some more components on my current project (50W Amp. for my QCX+).  Happy Thanksgiving to all!! / Woody / WD9F


Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

wa4dou@juno.com
 

For those concerned about tip life, turning off
your iron when not in use and turning it down
when taking a break, leads to long tip life measured in years. While I'm thinking specifically about a Weller WTCPN, the same applies to all.

de Roy WA4DOU




____________________________________________________________
Sponsored by https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&;utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more

Experimental Treatment Given to Trump Wins Approval
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5fba829078df22906b0bst04vuc1
Another Senator Tests Positive
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5fba82909916d2906b0bst04vuc2
Judge Tosses Trump's Bid to Block Pa. Vote Certification
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5fba8290b8a552906b0bst04vuc3


Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

Tommy Henderson
 

I use the Weller Tip"8" at 800F (that is about a 35W iron) and the Tip7 for 700F work (about a 28 to 30W Iron).  It depends on Tip length.  For surface mount using a 1.25" long tip, use the higher Temp, shorter tips for through hole as the 700 is closer to 750F with shorter tips.

Using a 20 to 25W iron ~ 650 may make you sleepy (on the amount of time spent holding the iron on the board to heat). 

Solders, I still use Sn 60/40 (close to 370F) or Eutectic 63/37. Have some 2%Ag for some work, and SN96-Ag3%-Cu1% or close to that which melts near 425F to ship outside US, Sn/Pb is preferred here.

Tommy - WD5AGO


Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

KM6KJE
 

try an infrared gun to check the temp tip of your gun

On Saturday, November 21, 2020, 06:42:32 PM PST, John - KK4ITX via groups.io <jleahy00@...> wrote:


Probably all of the answers are correct.

I have found that soldering irons and their reported temperatures only at best estimate the tip temperature. While it’s true various solders melt at a specific temperature your iron may read hotter or cooler, so one needs to experiment with their own unit because one temperature reading might be the correct one but the actual temperature at the tip will probably be different..... so we need to apply the commonly accepted approach and heat the pad and lead a bit prior to applying the solder.  The objective is to surround the lead by flowing solder around it and into the hole leaving a shiny bump of solder behind.

I have found that the cleaning of both the board and the leads with alcohol (not Evan Williams) to remove the crap from the manufacturer is quite helpful in producing a good looking joint.

A too low temperature will actually overheat a component because everything has to then be heated to the melting point of whatever solder is used.  A higher temperature allows for extreme heat quickly at the point of contact between the tip and the joints and the heat dissipates before it gets to the component.  Sensitive components may require a heat sink between it and the point of soldering.

Practice is very educational and resistors by the hundreds are quite cheap, pick up some PCB project boards and play with your iron and components and make a mess..... in a short time you will know how “your” iron, solder and technique make a good looking soldering job, the temperature reading helps but only after you’ve identified all of the quirks of your equipment.  3 or 4 dollars in parts and solder plus an hour or so should do it.

By the way, there are “practice” boards for SMT parts also and those components are really cheap...... push yourself a little it’s much easier than you think.

Good luck,
John
KK4ITX 

Visit:  www.zaarc.org.   👁

On Nov 21, 2020, at 19:49, Nate Bargmann <n0nb@...> wrote:

I guess I am the outlier, I use 640-645 typically unless it's a large
ground pad or joint and then I'll run it up past 700.  I like the lower
temperature as it doesn't burn the tip.  But maybe that was the cheap
Radio Shack iron I had in the '80s that did that...

72, Nate

--

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."

Web: https://www.n0nb.us
Projects: https://github.com/N0NB
GPG fingerprint: 82D6 4F6B 0E67 CD41 F689 BBA6 FB2C 5130 D55A 8819







Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

John - KK4ITX
 

Probably all of the answers are correct.

I have found that soldering irons and their reported temperatures only at best estimate the tip temperature. While it’s true various solders melt at a specific temperature your iron may read hotter or cooler, so one needs to experiment with their own unit because one temperature reading might be the correct one but the actual temperature at the tip will probably be different..... so we need to apply the commonly accepted approach and heat the pad and lead a bit prior to applying the solder.  The objective is to surround the lead by flowing solder around it and into the hole leaving a shiny bump of solder behind.

I have found that the cleaning of both the board and the leads with alcohol (not Evan Williams) to remove the crap from the manufacturer is quite helpful in producing a good looking joint.

A too low temperature will actually overheat a component because everything has to then be heated to the melting point of whatever solder is used.  A higher temperature allows for extreme heat quickly at the point of contact between the tip and the joints and the heat dissipates before it gets to the component.  Sensitive components may require a heat sink between it and the point of soldering.

Practice is very educational and resistors by the hundreds are quite cheap, pick up some PCB project boards and play with your iron and components and make a mess..... in a short time you will know how “your” iron, solder and technique make a good looking soldering job, the temperature reading helps but only after you’ve identified all of the quirks of your equipment.  3 or 4 dollars in parts and solder plus an hour or so should do it.

By the way, there are “practice” boards for SMT parts also and those components are really cheap...... push yourself a little it’s much easier than you think.

Good luck,
John
KK4ITX 

Visit:  www.zaarc.org.   👁

On Nov 21, 2020, at 19:49, Nate Bargmann <n0nb@...> wrote:

I guess I am the outlier, I use 640-645 typically unless it's a large
ground pad or joint and then I'll run it up past 700.  I like the lower
temperature as it doesn't burn the tip.  But maybe that was the cheap
Radio Shack iron I had in the '80s that did that...

72, Nate

--

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."

Web: https://www.n0nb.us
Projects: https://github.com/N0NB
GPG fingerprint: 82D6 4F6B 0E67 CD41 F689 BBA6 FB2C 5130 D55A 8819







Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

 

I guess I am the outlier, I use 640-645 typically unless it's a large
ground pad or joint and then I'll run it up past 700. I like the lower
temperature as it doesn't burn the tip. But maybe that was the cheap
Radio Shack iron I had in the '80s that did that...

72, Nate

--

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds. The pessimist fears this is true."

Web: https://www.n0nb.us
Projects: https://github.com/N0NB
GPG fingerprint: 82D6 4F6B 0E67 CD41 F689 BBA6 FB2C 5130 D55A 8819


Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

Mike D
 

I've always used 665F for lead, and 750F for other alloys.

Mike kd5rjz

On Sat, Nov 21, 2020, 4:21 PM wa4dou@... <wa4dou@...> wrote:
Guys,
8 years as a Sonar technician in the Navy and 39 yrs as a land mobile radio technician before retirement. My choice is 800-825 deg F. That temp gets the job done at each joint quickly.

de Roy WA4DOU



____________________________________________________________
Sponsored by https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more

Cuomo Is Getting an Emmy &mdash; Governor Cuomo, That Is
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5fb992d7b485412d73148st01vuc1
Conservatives Have a New Target&mdash;One of Their Own
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5fb992d7d3bb912d73148st01vuc2
Trump Thought His Sister Had His Back&mdash; She Didn't
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5fb992d7f30a112d73148st01vuc3






Re: Soldering Iron Temperature

wa4dou@juno.com
 

Guys,
8 years as a Sonar technician in the Navy and 39 yrs as a land mobile radio technician before retirement. My choice is 800-825 deg F. That temp gets the job done at each joint quickly.

de Roy WA4DOU



____________________________________________________________
Sponsored by https://www.newser.com/?utm_source=part&;utm_medium=uol&utm_campaign=rss_taglines_more

Cuomo Is Getting an Emmy &mdash; Governor Cuomo, That Is
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5fb992d7b485412d73148st01vuc1
Conservatives Have a New Target&mdash;One of Their Own
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5fb992d7d3bb912d73148st01vuc2
Trump Thought His Sister Had His Back&mdash; She Didn't
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/5fb992d7f30a112d73148st01vuc3

1301 - 1320 of 24262